Oh and for anyone now shouting Ondra, Jerry or Megos, there’s a Pro Tips section with these names and more in Chapter 18 towards the end of the book too. It keeps me motivated (perhaps even a bit too much - I tend to forget taking rest days a little 😅) even while training my weaknesses. You would be at a loss looking for comparisons between Hörst's "7-53", Eva López MaxHangs, or Steve Bechtel's Ladders.

After all, the information provided in the book is all that was needed for Ned to send 8C and for his wife Shauna to become the UK's most accomplished competitive climber. The chapter also discusses how you can increase the exercise difficulty by reducing the number of fingers involved and using bluetooth force meters, such as the Tindeq Progressor [3]. By using the Web site, you confirm that you have read, understood, and agreed to be bound by the Terms and Conditions. Additionally, criticism of the book has described the included information as common knowledge, but this seems unfair. A large section of the chapter is devoted to the importance of tracking your fingerboard training progress.It's clear that Ned has a thing for system board training, and that should be an obvious hint to us that system boards are an essential tool for building both finger strength and technical skills. My hangboard has sat idle since I purchased it but this book has inspired me to start hang boarding again. Informative and highly readable, I enjoyed this far more than when I soldiered throught the RCTM a few years ago. I thought it would only talk about hangboarding but the author also talks about climbing and stretching in general. Questions range from “What is your five-second maximum one-arm hang on the Beastmaker 2000 middle edge?

Essentially, this is the book you want if you want to get into training and don’t know where to start; I don’t think there is anything better available and it will save you loads of time. Then there the large sections dedicated to explaining the mechanics of the body going on in the background regardless of how you decide to train. Another interesting part of the chapter is genetics - how much they determine our climbing ability and potential for climbing hard. The final bit is about fine hand-beauty implements like sandpaper, razors, and knives, guaranteed to keep your skin smooth as a baby's bottom!Feehally said, “I just wanted to make a book that was so accessible to a normal person that couldn’t be asked to read a really boring book. For Feehally, Beastmaking is the result of years of self-experimentation and insights gleaned from fellow pro climbers. These are the sorts of contextual details that lend strength to his book and describe the direction he hoped to head with it.

Although Tendon Hangs help improve tendon health, they do not increase tendon stiffness and contact strength. I’ve spent lots of time with Ned Feehally over the years and I’ve always admired his dedicated approach to training. If I could add anything, it would be helpful to briefly discuss selecting the proper loads for fingerboard training and how that affects the training adaptations. After all, fingerboards for training had been around for at least a decade before Dan Varian and Ned Feehally set up their company but somehow, these new boys managed to revolutionise their niche industry. I was excited to read it as I've been a user of the Beastmaker 2000 for over a year now and obviously this book is written by one of the co-founders of the Beastmaker company.He has published more than a dozen military action-adventure novels, including the six-book series Force Recon. What are the most effective fingerboard routines guaranteed to skyrocket your strength and endurance?

He has climbed multiple Font 8cs, and in 2017 he climbed Trust Issues in Rocklands on his first attempt, joining a very small group of climbers to have flashed Font 8b+. What is finger strength, where does it come from, and what are the advantages of having strong fingers? If I had to choose between Eric Hörsts Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Climbing Performance and this one, it would be Beastmaking. What strikes me most about this book though is that despite the obvious decades of hard sends and training success squeezed in, Beastmaking is not a step-by-step prescription for how to train. Ned properly explains the primary muscles involved in climbing, paying particular attention to the hand anatomy, which is understandable.In the remaining sections, Ned also clearly explains when training one-armed is helpful and why sometimes it's not such a great idea. Granted, the fingerboards themselves are regularly used to elucidate a point and most of the photographs are of Beastmakers and not competitors (can you blame him for this?