Many here will tell you manufactures listings / specs trumps code. To an extent that is correct.. What manufactures specs can not do, is make me sign off a direct connect, even though the outdated manual tells me it is ok, in the case of the cross-sectional code. Yes I can hide behind the manufactures specs and approve the direct connect in an exterior fireplace. Before you start you will want to paint the surface of the inside walls of the recess and one side of the cement board with a PVA mix (3 water to 1 PVA). This is very important as without this stage the bond between wall and board may not be good. A closure plate is used when a chimney liner, containing flue gases, is present. The closure plate is therefore only required to seal the chimney for cosmetic reasons, to stop soot old soot falling on the stove but also to stop heat disappearing up the chimney and being wasted. If a closure plate developed a fault (e.g.hole) smoke could NOT enter the room as the smoke is contained in a chimney liner. So I cant say I'm too happy with his solution. Problem is he tells me "Thats how everyone does it""Its the industry standard".

what is the method (at the top exterior of the chimney) one uses to support the weight of the liner and do you have any photos of this? Is there some type of "collar" you clamp to the insert with "ears" on both sides that you support on the outer edges of the liner?

How to choose and measure liner

You will need to paint the surface of the inside walls of the recess and one side of the cement board with a PVA mix (3 water to 1 PVA). This is very important as without this stage the bond between wall and board may not be good. You should have something that looks like the picture above (without my colleague in the picture unless he has been moonlighting). The left, right and rear of the recess are lined with cement board and a dangling chimney liner is present. As I have suggested in the smooth-lining section you can, if you wish, fit the closure plate before the liner goes in, and even before the wall-lining (just adapt the instructions as required).

Connect all the marks so that your layout will look very much line the top inside of your fireplace with a 1” extra lip around it. What I have found is the MSDS for Inswool basically telling me how bad this stuff is to breath. Fibers cause cancer. And other good stuff like that. NFPA 211 changed the Cross-sectional code for venting in to a larger flue. The former code allowed 3x the flue collar cross-sectional area . Mark the center of measurement #1 in the center of this line, so there is enough room on both sides for total plate plus 1” extra on all side.Do NOT use plasterboard of any kind inside the fireplace recess, even the pink fire-resistant stuff, as this is not allowed as plasterboard is not officially non-combustible (plasterboard okay on chimney breast though). Warning: The height of the boards is critical: you want the top of the rear board to be completely horizontal and 15mm below the height of the lintel. I would recommend that you first have the flue swept, then a capping cowl is fitted to the terminal/pot, which would allow the flue to breathe but prevent water ingress and birds from entering the flue. When you cut out your hole you can afford to have it a reasonable size. As long as it is smaller than the square and there is material left for the four screw holes to work then all is good. What is the maximum output in kW of your "5kW" wood burning stove? The majority of manufacturers just specify the “nominal output” and this figure means very little in real life. The nominal is a figure the manufacturer chooses to sell the stove at - the stove is capable of reaching at least this output with one fuel load. Nominal means "capable of". But it is not the maximum.

Do you have a Power of Attorney? MoneySavingExpert.com founder Martin Lewis explains how this crucial protection works, why it's more important than a will, and how to get one in the latest episode of ITV's The Martin Lewis Money Show Live.If you are considering removing your old fireplace and replacing it with a modern electric fireplace, here’s a handy guide on the average costs of removing the old fireplace. Type Of Fireplace To Be Removed I wanted to know if there was a more permanent alternative? Maybe a register plate type fitting with a vent for ventilation? I've tried searching on-line and putting the job on mybuilder.com and ratedpeople.com but have had no response... not really sure where else to go. Go to top of chimney and pull the liner up until the newly-attached vitreous pipe is “up the chimney a little, out of the way" so the closure plate can be fitted.