It is recommended to select the image stabilizer switch of the lens to "OFF" when using the FDA-K1. Specially designed for old negative copying, converts film & slides to digital files, can help you save memories of old photos

It is recommended to select the image stabilizer switch of the lens to "OFF" when using the FDA-S1. It can be used to photograph 35mm film and is compatible with the following select CAN., NIK., SON., Laowa and OLY. lenses 1: JJC 35mm Film Negative Scanner,Film Digitizing Adapter with LED Light Set,Slide&Film Holder for Negative Copying.Restore Film... Description I'd like to see an option for scanning medium format film. Kind of surprised there are no commercial options for medium format using this approach.It comes with more lens adapter rings than the ES-2, and also more options for extension. That makes it possible to use it with my full frame camera and either my 50mm macro or 100mm macro, or with my APS-C camera and 50mm macro. I found my workflow with the ES-2 difficult, and with the camera I was using the results were no better than using a scanner. As I didn’t want to replace my digital camera I just got rid of the ES-2, but if I’d have kept it I’d have had to do something. I think foam would probably solve the issue on the ES-2 too. I did do that with one Kodachrome slide, a window lit portrait which was half in shadow. I could lift the shadow up to almost the same brightness as the lit side, but you could tell from the “grain” that it was not quite right. That was probably an extreme example though - I have kept the scan but not brightened up all the way.

I briefly had the Nikon ES-2 and at least the sample I had also had this problem. If I’d have kept it I think I would have used it with the camera at 90 degrees on the tripod, so the film holder was vertically downwards .

The spring tension is loose so the strip rail doesn't stay square with the rest of the frame, requires frequent adjustment. (If you take it apart, which I suggest anyway (see below), you can bend the springs a bit to get more tension).

LED light features 42 built-in ultra-bright LEDs.The color difference can be effectively reduced for the LED's 95+ color rendering index and 6500K color temperature. I have a few different ways to digitize 35mm film: dedicated film scanner, flatbed scanner, cheap CMOS digitizer, and old school film/slide holder for use with a digital camera and macro lens. I use them all depending on the purpose of the moment.If you're combining the ES-2 with the light kit bust out the screw drivers. You'll need a Philips #4 as all the screws are the same small size. On the ES-2 remove the flat field plate and replace the screws without it. The second flat field plate cuts too much light to be useful and introduces some weird vignetting. You'll also need to remove the rail springs as they require the plate to function and we're going to use the ones on the light instead. Wrap in cloth and store the flat field plate somewhere safe. Keep the springs in the same box but don't wrap them up with the plate to prevent scratching. That plate is still useful. The supplied adapters allow you to attach the set to different lenses and the angle of view and tilt can be adjusted by using the view angle adjustment ring on the barrel. Dedicated film holders for both film strips and mounted slides2 are included, as well, to help hold the film taut and to benefit handling. Besides that, the set is particularly well-suited for the NIK. D850 camera due to its dedicated Negative Digitizer mode and ability to automatically reverse colors in-camera to expedite the digitizing process. Additionally, it is recommended to use natural light or a light source with a high Ra (color rendering index)3 such as a light box or high-CRI fluorescent lamp when carrying on a negative copying. You can also use the set together with the JJC FDA-LED1 LED Light Set for Negative Copying4 (sold separately). When using an incandescent light source, keep the diffuser screen at least 30cm (1 ft.) from the bulb. If the adapter is placed too close to an incandescent bulb or left too long in its vicinity, the heat may damage the film or deform the holder. Thanks for posting this. The link says it is currently unavailable, but I may look for this and give it a try. I also know how to fix the problem preventing the film housing from getting close enough to my 50mm lens to completely fill the frame, but that one requires considerably more work.)

The tolerance of the sliding carriers in the film housing is not ideal. There's room for some slight tilting. I fixed this by adding bits of thin, dense foam to the slot in the film holder where the carriers sit. That eliminates any play and keeps the carriers level. The JJC FDA-S1 includes a barrel, eight adapters, a slide mount holder, a strip film holder and an LED light. JJC 35mm Film Negative Scanner,Film Digitizing Adapter with LED Light Set,Slide&Film Holder for Negative Copying.Restore Film to Digital Photos,Film and Slide Scanner Accessories The supplied adapters allow you to attach the set to different lenses and the angle of view and tilt can be adjusted by using the view angle adjustment ring on the barrel. Dedicated film holders for both film strips and mounted slides2 are included, as well, to help hold the film taut and to benefit handling. Besides that, the set is particularly well-suited for the NIK. D850 camera due to its dedicated Negative Digitizer mode and ability to automatically reverse colors in-camera to expedite the digitizing process. Additionally, you can use the set together with the included LED Light3 to get high quality light source and improve image sharpness. I have the option of doing that, but I prefer correcting the problem. One reason why I like products of this type is that they don't require any special support setup. I can have the camera sitting normally on a desk, using window light or a small artificial light source. It's good ergonomics with very little setup or teardown needed.

I found my workflow with the ES-2 difficult, and with the camera I was using the results were no better than using a scanner. I was going to cut that tube to a better length, but the easy solution is to instead substitute one of the #2 tubes (there are two of those in the kit), which are shorter. The other #2 tube remains available as an extension for use with my APS-C camera if I need to shoot with that for some reason. I believe the combination of two #2 tubes would only be needed with macro lenses longer than about 80mm, so that's not an issue for me. One slight annoyance with my personal gear is that I can't make the extension short enough to entirely fill the frame using my full frame camera with the 50mm macro. At the shortest extension, the lens can provide only about 0.9x magnification instead of 1x, meaning the final pixel resolution of the image is slightly less than optimal. That's a result of the design of the lens housing, so it will likely be different with different lenses. Not a big deal, really.