The included CRTouch probe does a fine job of measuring the slopes in the print bed. The firmware of the 3D printer controller board then adjusts the print head during 3D printing to compensate for any non-flatness. It’s suitable for temperatures up to 400°C, and has a wear and scratch-resistant surface with nano-molecular coating to improve adhesion.

The 350W high-quality built-in power supply is more secure and reliable, improving the stability and the sense of integration. A zipped window that runs almost the front and top of the enclosure offers easy access to the printer and a good-sized viewing window. Creality offers its very own enclosure solution designed specifically for the Ender 3. What I like so much here is the simplicity: no complex assembly, high prices, or major limitations. The Creality tent enclosure covers all the main filaments: ASA, PC, ABS, and pretty much any other heat-sensitive material. Now that the major assembly work is complete there are two small white plugs to attach to the motors for both of the dual Z axes.The upgrade is specifically for the Ender 3, which makes it more of a DIY project than Creality alternatives, but for the flexibility it offers, it’s certainly worth the extra effort. Both the Creality Ender 3 Max and Ender 3 Max are reliable 3D printers. We have had to replace a few parts on these printers after extended use, including new hot ends, extruder gears, and new power supplies. The Ender 3 Max and Max Neo have some improvements that increase their reliability and prevent some of the repairs that we eventually needed to perform on the Ender 3 V2. All Ender 3 models are capable of heating the nozzle to 260C and the bed to 110C, hot enough to print any common materials such as PLA, PETG, and ABS. Since neither printer has an all-metal hot end, continued printing at high temperatures can cause the PTFE tubing that carries the filament to degrade over time, which increases the likelihood of jamming. Fortunately, this is a fairly easy issue to fix if you know what to look for. You can learn more about this issue and the repair in our hot-end guide. Chassis Style

Everything from ease of use, printer longevity and (most importantly) print quality can be improved by using some of the best Ender 3 upgrades. In particular, too much heat can affect the lifespan and performance of electronic parts such as the power supply, display, and mainboard. Whatever way you look at it, this is a DIY project, so assembly is very much hands-on with a good dose of problem-solving if you don’t go down the kit route – one for the experienced DIYers or motivated beginners out there. The Creality Ender 3 Max Neo’s control unit also allows you to modify or “tune” the print while it’s in progress. You can change options like the printing speed, nozzle temperature, and bed temperature. You can even change the offset of the Z axis, bringing it closer or further away from the bed if needed. I really love this feature as it prevents having to stop a print, reload the model into a slicer, make changes, and start the print again.We would have much rather seen a top-mounted spool holder, like on the Ender 3 V2 Neo. This only takes up vertical space and gives you are more organized desk. One of my standard 3D printing tests is a basic XYZ 20mm Calibration Cube and with the gray matte filament, I was really able to see the quality of the test. We tested a vase printed in TPU and a hand model printed in PLA, and the results came out very impressive. Without an enclosure, the Ender 3 is subject to ambient temperature fluctuation caused by natural shifts and factors like drafts. Besides running out of filament twice due to human error, the one failure of the print was the hinge for the lid. This was a print-in-place model which should have been no problem for the Max Neo, but the parts of the hinge didn’t print with enough space between them to work properly.