Nagura stones are easy to use. Simply wet the large stone and rub the small stone on its surface. You may need to add additional drops of clean water while doing this. The goal is to wear down the high spots on the large stone while at the same time producing a slurry mixture from both stones to use when sharpening blades. Wet the Naniwa Nagura by spraying or briefly submerging it. These are splash-and-go, and a long soak is not required to prepare them. Your water stone should also be wet. Once both are wet, rub the surface of your water stone with the nagura. This will create a slurry of abrasive particles on the surface of the water stone to prepare it for enhanced sharpening. Choose from 10 grits Sometimes, the nagura stone and whetstone have a tendency to grip one another. It’s always a good idea to mount the whetstone in a stone holder or sink bridge to ensure that it doesn’t scoot around too much. Use a gentle touch! If the large stone is already perfectly flat, and you need to produce a starting slurry, work the ends and corners of the large stone with the nagura in anticipation of those areas becoming high in the near future. That’s a good boy. Protecting the Tsushima Nagura Stone An alternative method of nagura is to use what is called a tomo nagura or a partner nagura. Traditionally, tomo nagura are a piece of the whetstone itself which has been cut separately. This provides a palm-sized chunk or smaller which can be used on the larger whetstone’s surface. A traditional tomo nagura is ideal as the the slurry generated between the whetstone and nagura will consist of all the same particles since they are essentially the same material. This is the only natural nagura type where you do not pull particles which are different from the whetstone into the slurry mix.

This part is easy. Just plunk it into some clean water and let it get totally saturated. This usually takes about 10-15 minutes. Incredible Value: Included Nagura flattening stone acts as a conditioner for both the sharpening and finishing stone.However, do remember that every blade is unique and what works for one katana may not work for another. It's important to get to know your blade and adjust your techniques accordingly. This is part of the beauty of owning a katana - each one has its own personality, its own needs, and its own story to tell. Common Mistakes to Avoid Included #1000 grit stone is your all-purpose stone to sharpen dull or damaged blades, and a #6000 to return that mirror polish and screamingly sharp edge to your blade. ideal for sharpening both German and Japanese style knives, scissors and other bladed tools. Handcrafted Acacia wood base serves as a level surface to hold your stones in place as you sharpen, and as a convenient base for easy storage. TO RE-FINNISH A POLISH” correct description: In some special cases a sword that is in an old polish can be re-Finished if the foundation is deemed to be in good shape and the geometry is correct for the sword. This is to be judged by each individual sword polisher and his discretion. This polish is achieved by starting with the Uchigumori stone (For more information please look at “Foundation Polish”). Then the sword is finish to reveal all the points necessary in a high level polish. This polish will cost about 25% less than a full polish. Protect your investment by ensuring proper maintenance and sharpening of your blades with the Dalstrong Premium Whetstone Set. Peak performance never looked so good to you or your wallet. Hold the blade up to a light source and look along the edge. If the edge reflects light, it's dull. A sharp edge, on the other hand, will not reflect light. Understanding the state of your blade will help you determine how much work needs to be done and guide you in selecting the right tools for the job. Applying the Sharpening Stone

There are numerous ways to sharpen chisels. Some do it strictly by hand, while others use a jig. Some sharpen with oilstones, others with waterstones, and still others with diamond stones. Some use a strop at the end. This instructable will demonstrate the use of waterstones and a honing guide, and will get your chisel sharpened to 8000 grit with a microbeveled edge. Now here's what you need: Sharpening a katana is a meticulous process that requires a steady hand and an understanding of the blade's structure. The goal is to remove the minimum amount of material necessary to sharpen a katana and restore the edge. This is achieved by maintaining a consistent angle between the blade and the stone, applying even pressure, and sharpening the entire blade, not just the edge.The Knifewear Nagura Stone developed in part by our good friends at Naniwa, one of the premier manufacturers of sharpening supplies, is in essence a very hard 600 grit stone. Here’s how it works: In general I don't use a nagura stone these days, except to remove high spots on the stone when I am in the middle of working.

Depends what Ya are Looking for on the Natural Stone Path..I Personally..Normally Prefer a Natural Edge to a Synthetic One..I Do Enjoy Both Mind..Depending on Steel Variations..But..The Vast Majority of My Razors have a Natural Edge..

Second question is about using oil or water. I've been using water with great results, because I haven't wanted to deal with the mess of oil as I often take my sharpening kit with me on the go.