Using those clips on either end of a walkway lets you suspend between it two other terrain pieces. If you really want to cover more ground, combining two long walkways is an excellent choice. Sector Mechanicus. Credit: Fowler

Bigger is usually more accepted than smaller, though imo bigger can give you just as much as an advantage or disadvantage as smaller in this edition so I wouldn't really count on that Yeah, no problem. It would also improve their look as the bigger base size alone already makes them seem to be bigger compared to regular humans. They'd still look tiny compared to Primaris, Deathwatch and the new Chaos Marine models though. Yellow traditionally needs a few layers, and these things are large. Given the slightly rusty and oily look of the metal, I didn’t want the panels to look too pristine, which they would do with just a flat coat of paint.

Sector Mechanicus Terrain

Next comes the base color for the walkway. I liked the light beige-ish color they used on the original mechanicus terrain shown off so I went with that as my scheme. I apply a few thin coats of Karak Stone to get the base color for the walkway I need.

Included are 2 65mm Round bases, 10 40mm Round bases and 40 32mm Round bases, along with 2 lights, 2 vent and 2 computer terminals to add to any base for extra detail. Can I use these blank 32mm bases to replace the 25mm bases from my 4th/5th edition Power Armor models? Or do they need to use the 25mm bases they came with? The new Master of Possession in Shadowspear is also on a 40mm though he would have fit fine on a 32mm IMHO. Likewize, the new havocs are on 40mm bases, but they really do need that base size and their stances are very wide. If I can I put the standard infantry units on the 32mm can I then put the HQ/Character models on 40mm bases like the Primaris HQ/Character models are? Or would they all need to be on 32mm bases?Once that’s done the next step is to add variety of color to the innards of the platform. You can do this before you lay down the karak stone if you prefer, but I find it easier to touch that up if I slip. Here I usually get some of the pipes and make sure to get some kind of continuity of color on them using Balthasar Gold. The goal is just to add a splash of color variety, which goes a long way. Copper piping Use a BIG brush to stipple inconsistent patches of a mid-brown over the primer spray. You want to be as messy and inconsistent as possible, with some patches of brown being fairly solid, and others being pretty much just a drybrush. Pretty much any mid brown will be fine for this, although going as dark as Citadel Rhinox Hide would probably be fine. Personally I was using the big ol’ keg of Calthan Brown that came in the old Citadel Scenery Painting set. If you’re not sure about the brown you’re using, just do a small bit of scenery to completion and see how it all sits together. Fowler: Oddly enough, Shadow War: Armageddon is what got me to really take the plunge on the hobby. Assembly note for people who want to maximize modularity (for Necro and Kill Team especially) – I highly recommend making some clipped walkways. Sector Mechanicus. Credit: Fowler That leaves us with just one step left: Weathering. This is another spot I don’t want to spend a ton of time, so I take an old flared out brush or a piece of sponge and just dapple Typhus Corrosion all over the surface to give it lots of grime spots and dirt. I’ll smudge a few as well. There are multiple planes to these since the detail is cut into the base itself to give it that three-dimensional feel. Looks like this is a good thing since they are working within the limitations of the material and making sure the detail doesn’t appear flat.

I'm also building a Chaos Daemon army and all of the Bloodletters came w/25mm (2x start collecting boxes) bases and I'm thinking of swapping them to 32mm bases and my son plays Necrons & Dark Eldar and his all his models from the start collecting boxes came on 25mm bases and they seem to work OK for his Necrons & Dark Eldar (because they're fairly small & light models) but my Bloodletters keep tipping over on the 25mm bases - especially the banner & instrument carriers and I think they would look much nicer on the 32mm bases (more room for basing the realm of blood). So, I know these jamokes up there think their method is easy, but…. they’re using multiple steps and dry brushes and highlights…. All I’m saying is that my method has about 10 less steps than either of theirs. One key step to prepare the Sector Mechanicus terrain for paint is applying some Vallejo Oxide Paste to areas that you want heavier rust and grime. Credit: 40khamslam You probably don’t need 3 clips AND a railing to support a long clipped walkway, but you also really don’t want it to fail! Use your best judgment. Painting Sector Mechanicus

Recommended: Movement Trays for 32mm Bases

Broadly speaking, there’s three phases to this: grungy metal, then a pop of bright colour on the flat panels, then some minimal detailing. Phase One: Basic Grungy Metal The Sector Mechanicus terrain first debuted in 2017 in the Shadow War: Armageddon boxed game, which came with a staggeringly generous assortment of terrain for playing with the two kill teams included in the box, Space Marine Scouts and Ork Boyz. The Sector Mechanicus terrain is fantastic for Necromunda and Kill Team, where its raised walkways and towering metal struts make for great cover and vertical battlefields. It’s also frequently used for games of Warhammer 40,000, where it’s a bit less useful thanks to not quite working with the game’s all-or-nothing visibility rules for terrain, but with the right setups can be a great addition to the battlefields of the 41st millennium. Zone Mortalis is not just limited to the underhive of Necromunda, the kits are also perfect for use in Warhammer 40,000 and The Horus Heresy. Want to recreate the tunnels of Calth, a mining sector overrun by a Genestealer Cult or even an abandoned Space Hulk? With the combination of the scenery kits, you are only limited by your own imagination. One thing to note here and the biggest pain about this is that I also paint in the recessed parts of the walkway. This is a big pain in the ass and a seemingly minor thing but it makes a huge difference when you look at the model on the table. Painting the sides of the recessed parts Edge drybrush everything with a light silver. I used Citadel Necron Compound, but I think Vallejo Air Steel would also work well. Sector Mechanicus terrain: the end of the grungy metal stage. Credit: Charlie Brassley

Howdy scummers! As we prepare for the upcoming release of Necromunda: Ash Wastes, this seemed like a phenomenal time to hit up the Goonhammer contributors for their preferred methods for painting up Sector Mechanicus kits. SM seems like a solid way to “fill” up an Ash Wastes table, in a spirit similar to the terrain previewed for the next box! We just want to encourage you to paint up all the terrain you’ve been hoarding. Sector Mechanicus Terrain Similar question regarding Necron & Dark Eldar models - they come with 25mm bases, but could you legally put them on 32mm bases? Designed to complement the Sector Mechanicus scenery range, this box of 52 highly detailed Citadel plastic round bases contains three different sizes, and features the same textures as the rest of the Sector Mechanicus range. There’s a host of pipework, vents, cogs and Adeptus Mechanicus symbols for your miniatures to stand atop – they’ll look at home in the murky industrial confines of the Sector Mechanicus.

Painting Sector Mechanicus

From here is the detail work. I use acrylic inks over the raised details on top and inside the barriers to add some visual interest and serve as the underlayer for anywhere I want hazard stripes. I then custom printed hazard stripes on decal paper and cut them to size since I’m lazy and didn’t feel like masking and airbrushing everything. They’ll go right on top of the ink and with some Micro Set will soften and conform to the part. You may need to use a knife to poke holes where the plastic overlaps a rivet hole. After the ink dries a layer of sepia wash tones things downs and blends it all in. For the mechanical bits in the pillars I applied some Dirty Down Verdigris and then applied some sepia wash to blend it in. With the imminent release of Ash Wastes, I decided to finally build and paint up all of the Sector Mechanicus kits I have been buying up over the past few years. The scheme I’ve got here can be toned waaaaay down if you want to turn it into a speedpaint as well. The basic gist of it is red platforms and bone-colors supports. Sector Mechanicus. Credit: Fowler Incidentally, I rebased all my previous edition models to 32mm to make them consistent with any new models I might buy and because I thought they looked better. I'm quite happy with the decision, in particular with the metal raptors I have, as it allowed me to put metal washers under their bases which has made them much less tippy. Drybrush a dark metallic over the whole thing. I used Army Painter gunmetal, but I’m sure Citadel Leadbelcher would be fine too. I applied Reaper’s Brown Liner to the gaps between the panels to add some contrast. Next, to add the streaks, I applied sporadic dots of Brown Liner at the lower edges of the horizontal panels and immediately smudged them downward using my finger. Would enamels and cotton buds and white spirit look better? Yes. Was my method insanely fast? Also yes. A word of warning: as soon as you put a dot on the surface, you need to wipe with your finger immediately. I can’t emphasise that enough. Doing two or three dots right next to each other then smudging them is fine, but don’t apply dots to the whole section and then try and smudge them; you’ll get horrible tidal stains. Sector Mechanicus terrain. Credit: Charlie Brassley