Games Workshop - Warhammer 40,000 - Genestealer Cults Achilles Ridgerunner

Product Information

For crew members, use Rakarth Flesh for a natural look. Enhance interior details with Mournfang Brown for contrasts. Basecoat with thin layers of this colour, taking care not to build up so much paint that the details are obscured. Slow and steady wins the race! With the latest set of codices now on the shelves, it’s time to start breaking down what units and options are going to be right for your list! For the human skin highlight the colours are basically just moving left to right from darkest to lightest of this trio of paints. The darker skin is a couple of thin coats of Knight-Questor, then for the last highlight mixing in a touch of Cadian. The medium skin tone started with Cadian followed by mixing in a bit of Kislev for the final highlight of the medium tone. Then I reused that Cadian/Kislev mix for the initial highlight of the lightest tone that was then finished off with kislev. The hybrid skin is a couple of thin coats of Ushabti over the base coat, you can push it a touch further with screaming skull if you want. For the chipping, take a fine piece of sponge and use it to dab Rhinox Hide on the sharpest corners.

To get river/lake looking shiny I just kinda pour some gloss varnish from the bottle on, you will want a paper clip or something to poke any bubbles. The penultimate step is painting the rims with your choice of paint, in this case I used dryad to match my Tyranids. The last model thing the models need is to throw on some tufts, I like using these ones from Gamers Grass: Genestealer Cults Patriarch. In his hand he has a Blood Angels helmet and on his base is a Crimson Fist, neatly covering my two Marine armies. Credit: CorrodeThe Ridgerunner and Goliath were weathered via hairspray chipping, enamel panel liner & streaking grime, and a rough edge highlight of silver. To reveal an ambush marker, select one unit from your army that was set up in ambush and has not yet been set up from an ambush marker: Set up the remaining models in that unit wholly within 6" of the first model, wholly within your deployment zone and more than 9" away from any enemy models.

Cult of the Warmason by CL Werner is primarily about the Sisters of Battle going up against a Genestealer Cults infestation on the shrine world of Lubentina. Let’s start out with targeting the Redemptor: toughness 7, 3+ save with -1 damage. For both weapons we will examine the unbuffed baseline, +1 to hit via Crossfire, and +1 to hit with +1 to wound with Crossfire plus Exposed bonuses. What might be confusing here is the uniform, where I start with Nuln to darken and desaturate it a bit before Druchii gets colour right. Highlights – Making the gribblies pop

Contents

Blue/Grey Cloth: – Base with Dark Reaper. – Wash with Coelia Greenshade. – Highlight with Dark Reaper. – Edge Highlight with Thunderhawk Blue. Thinned down glazes of Scalecolour FX Fluor Orange following these lines, pulling the paint towards the lantern, so the colour is strongest closer to the bulb itself. Feather the colour with a bit of water at the farthest extremes to create a soft gradient between the orange and non-orange colour, the gel medium of the Scalecolour paints really helps when it comes to blending it out like this. Units set up in ambush are considered to be set up on the battlefield (unless they are embarked within a TRANSPORT model that is set up in ambush), even though their models are not actually on the battlefield. Enemy models cannot be set up or moved within 9" of the centre of any of your ambush markers.

You can set up this unit anywhere on the battlefield that is more than 8" away from any enemy models. Decorative Metal (Icons, Leaders’ Weapons): – Base with Balthasar Gold. – Wash with Agrax Earthshade. – Drybrush with Hashut Copper. – Lightly Drybrush with Sycorax Bronze, focused on the edges. Emphasize additional support systems with Runelord Brass or Balthasar Gold, harmonizing with the main theme while adding depth. The solution was to take a pressmold of a Zone Mortalis tile and make my own base topper. I started with two part silicone putty. This size of mold will use a decent chunk of a box, but the mold should hold up for quite a while! Press the putty into the surface and wait about 90 minutes to demold something this size. I really do like this model, and as it is an Imperial light exploratory vehicle, I decided that I could use this to support my Daemonhunters force of Inquisitorial Stormtroopers, some of whom are Cadian Kasrkin and some are Tallarn Imperial Guard.Personalize the model with Citadel decals and insignias. Use a fine brush to neatly apply these details, elevating the overall appearance.

Our goal is to build upon and consolidate the great work already being done by other community members across various forums, reddit threads, and hobby blogs, and bring together a comprehensive library of all these useful Build Instruction booklets. The first round of base coats are for the skin, and this is pretty much what you can see. I used Carroburg on the more evidently Tyranid hybrids and then various flesh contrasts for the more human range skin tones. Mutant Innards (Tongues, Tentacles, Exposed Muscle, Blood Vials): – Base with Daemonette Flesh. – Wash with Guilliman Blue (if available) or 50/50 Tallasar Blue/Contrast Medium – Carefully Highlight with Warpfiend Grey. – Edge Highlight with Slaanesh Grey. Once the chipping is where you want, its crucial that you seal thoroughly with varnish, otherwise washes and later paint layers can reactivate the chipping medium. In my case I am using either Vallejo Mecha Matte or Premium Air Matte, and I am not quite sure how other finishes will affect how the the scheme turns since there are a lot of washes involved. Do note, that while I describe doing this with a airbrush you could probably do it by hand or rattle can, its just that it might take a lot longer. Base Coats – Its almost all washes baby As we can see, the distribution of results for the AML is very different from the HML in that the distribution is less continuous due to the flat damage where we only get damage in multiples of two thanks to the Redemptor’s -1 to damage. This requires both sets of bonuses to even beat the unbuffed HML, which is unfortunate. I love depending on consistency when I can, but the ability for the HML to potentially swing big allows them to outperform the AMLs more often than not against a Redemptor or similar target. For reference below is the probability to kill the Redemptor in one turn with this setup. Chance to Kill Redemptor in One TurnThis vital data is transmitted to the cult gene-sect's headquarters, where it can be absorbed and disseminated by a Nexos strategist. Other Ridgerunners carry flare launchers, usually employed for signalling and coordinating ambushes and outflanking manoeuvres -- though at a pinch they can also level a smokescreen to hide the vehicle's advance. Basecoat any claws with Lupercal Green, shade with Coelia Greenshade, highlight with Sons of Horus Green The Achilles Ridgerunner is an Imperial light exploratory vehicle often used to scout out new ore seams by mining guild prospectors and newly discovered terrain on Frontier Worlds by geological surveyors. Being lazy about waiting for the chipping medium to dry, since the medium behaves weirdly through the airbrush I find it tends to pool occasionally resulting in areas that take longer to dry. You can exploit this by just not quite letting it dry in those spots as it will give a good impression of a larger patch of paint falling off after a bit of gentle rubbing with a damp brush.