Once only found in dermatology clinics but now available over-the-counter, retinol can speed up skin cell regeneration and boost collagen production to smooth, firm and take years off your complexion. Ever the multi-taster, it can also help to unclog pores and prevent acne. This product contains 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness Vitamin C is also a key component in helping your skin regulate collagen, thus making it effective in improving wrinkles and fine lines. As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. These antioxidants also protect skin against UV damage. As for the three magic abilities of Vitamin C, we again mostly haveonly the manufacturer's claims, but at least those are very promising. EAC seems to have both an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect, and it's claimed to be able to boost the skin's collagen production. The strong point of EACthoughis skin brightening. On top of manufacturer claims, there is also clinical in-vivo (tested on real people) data showing that 2% EAC can improve skin tone and whiten the skin. As we wrote in our lengthy retinol description the problem is that the conversion is not terriblyeffective. The evidence that RP is still an effective anti-aging ingredient is not very strong, in fact, it's weak. Dr. Leslie Baumann in her fantastic Cosmetic Dermatologybook writes that RP is topically ineffective.

One of the biological activities of thecentellosides isto be able to stimulate GAGs(glycosaminoglycans - polysaccharides that are part of the liquidy stuff between our skin cells), and especially hyaluronic acid synthesis in our skin. This is probably one of the reasons why Centella Asiatica Extract has nice skin moisturizingproperties that was confirmed by a 25 people, four weeks study along with Centella's anti-inflammatory effects. Don’t mix retinol with AHAs or BHAs because using too many active ingredients, too frequently, can spark sensitivity. For this reason, also be careful if using a cleanser with actives. Below, you’ll find products with 0.15% retinoid for beginners, through to 1% blends for more experienced users. Is it okay to use retinol every night? What's more, the anti-aging effectiveness is not the only questionable thing about RP. It also exibits questionable behaviour in the presence of UV light and was the center of a debate between the non-profit group, EWG (whose intentions are no doubt good, but its credibility is often questioned by scientists) and a group of scientists and dermatologists lead bySteven Q. Wang, MD, director of dermatologic surgery at Memorial-Sloan Kettering Cancer Centre.

If you want to use both retinol and brightening vitamin C in your skincare routine, apply the latter ingredient in the morning to give your skin a breather. Some brands do blend the two together, but these products have been carefully formulated to not cause irritation, so don't take a DIY approach. How we test retinoid serums Retinoids can cause burning, stinging and peeling when first applied,” says Dr Mahto. “Build up their use slowly – a few times weekly – until you are able to use them nightly. If the product makes your skin sore, give it a break; if not, you are OK to continue using it. Madecassoside can also help in burn wound healing through increasing antioxidant activity and enhancing collagen synthesis. Asiaticoside was shown to increase antioxidant levels on rats skin when applied at 0.2%. Centella Asiatica also often shows up in products that try to treat cellulite or striae. Of course, it cannot make a miracle but it might have some effect via regulating microcirculation and normalizing the metabolism in the cells of connective tissues. When it comes to cosmetic oils and hype, argan oil is for sure leading the way. Dubbed as the " liquid gold of Morocco", we have to admit we have some trouble determining why this oil enjoys such a special miracle status. Not that it's not good, it is good, even greatbut reading the research about argan and a bunch of other plant oils we just do not see the big, unique differentiating factor (though that might be our fault not reading enough, obvs.)

However, for a Vitamin C derivative to workit's not enough just to be stable, they also have to be absorbed into the skin and be converted there to pure Vitamin C. We have good news regarding the absorption: on top of manufacturer claims, there is somedata (animal study) demonstrating in can get into the skin, and it seems to be better at it than Ascorbyl Glucoside, another vitamin C derivative. Moisturising hyaluronic acid and ceramides can help to lessen the severity of retinol side effects. However, Dr Mahto recommends waiting 15 to 20 minutes after applying your retinol serum before applying your chosen moisturiser, so as not to minimise the retinoid's efficacy. What can you not mix with retinol?

First-timers and those with sensitive skin may wish to try a gentler retinyl ester – look for retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinyl linoleate in the ingredients list. What is the best retinol for beginners? Water– Plain old water. Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. Vitamin E helps stabilize and provide a boost in the benefits of ascorbic acid. It helps aid in UV protection but becomes unstable when exposed to UV and air. Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.

Butylene Glycol– Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Its main job is usually to be a solvent for the other ingredients. Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin, making the product spread nicely over the skin, and attracting water (humectant) into the skin. We think that the truth lies somewhere in the middle, and we agree with Dr. Baumann's conclusion: " sufficient evidence to establish a causal link between RP and skin cancer has not been produced. Nor, I’m afraid, are there any good reasons to recommend the use of RP". We would addespeciallyduring the day!Retinol and retinal (abbreviated from retinaldehyde) can be bought over-the-counter and are weaker than retinoic acid, which is generally a prescription-only agent,” she says. Mother Nature also created wax esters but for a totally different purpose. Chemically, a wax ester is a fatty acid + a fatty alcohol, one long molecule. Wax esters are on the outer surface of several plant leaves to give them environmental protection. 25-30% of human sebum is also wax esters to give uspeople environmental protection. Depending on the concentration and formulation, retinol is generally a milder choice than retinal. This is because it takes longer to convert to the most potent retinoic acid in your skin, reducing the risk of irritation. Experienced retinol users, however, may prefer the faster results of retinal.

Ascorbic acid is generally compatible with other ingredients. However, using ascorbic acid with other active ingredients might cause irritation. Two ingredients: copper ions and benzoyl peroxide, will inactivate ascorbic acid completely. Whichever retinoid serum you choose, start with a low dose of around 0.2% and increase the strength slowly, as side effects like tingling and flakiness are common.As for linoleic acid and the skin, LA is a really important little guy found naturallyin our skin. It is the most abundant fatty acid in the epidermis and it serves as a structural precursor for important skin lipids called ceramides. Knowing this, it will not come as a surprise that Linoleic acid has a central rolein the structure and function of stratum corneum permeability, aka healthy skin barrier.LA deficiency leads to an impairedmore permeable skin barrier and the topical application of LA-rich sunflower oil can fix this issue rapidly (while oleic-rich olive oil did not have the same barrier repairing effect).