Just as foundation paints, the old washes were very popular. Everybody loved them because they made it easy to get decent results in very little time, even for the not so gifted painters. I imagine a lot of people got quite nervous when they heard that their beloved washes got replaced. The shades definitely have to take on a difficult heritage, but in those video testimonials over on GW.com they full-bodied said that they made them even better. Let’s see if this is true.

Lizzie: What a name! Perfect on Daemonettes and other Daemons of Slaanesh – you can apply this over a light skin tone to create gaunt and sunken flesh. It’s also fun to use over metallics to create a really unique tone. This gives you a lot of freedom to experiment! You can go for the plain, empty wasteland style, or use scrub bushes and trees, and a wide range of colours. Below are a number of techniques our authors use to create their own desert bases – you can try using them, or take them as inspiration for your own. Looking at all angles of your model, make sure your dry brush covers only the raised surfaces of your miniature. This is the key thing you want to do when you’re looking to add that “extra dimension” to your miniature. 5. Add highlights with dry brushingThe key here is to leave a good area flat area for your models to stand on, then some interesting shapes as required. Layers are your regular acrylic paint and thus the successors of the Citadel Colours. I always felt the regular Citadel paints were the weak spot of the old paint range. They dried very fast and often thinned down unevenly, both issues that made layering and blending quite hard. There were some great colours, especially the silvers, but all in all both Vallejo, Reaper and Privateer Press had paints with better coverage and a easier to use consistency. Lizzie: As majestic as Sigvald himself, this is a really vibrant colour that shades and highlights effortlessly. Naturally, I’ve tried this on the Prince himself and I can confirm – he heartily approves. Reikland Fleshshade Wash (I will sub this in with Cassandora Yellow, Agrax Earthshade or Seraphim Sepia as my mood dictates)

King Ghidra: The skin on the Saurus and Skinks was all done with a base of Evil Sunz Scarlet, because I wanted it to be as bright as possible. This was shaded with Carroburg Crimson and highlighted with Astorath Red dry. The Armor was a base of Retributor Armor, washed with Reikland Flesh Shade and highlighted with Auric Gold. The cloth was Dryad Bark, which is a lovely deep brown, with Nuln Oil to shade, and Gorthor Brown highlights Sitting next to Volupus Pink, but even richer, this colour comes close to the intensity of Screamer Pink, but with the unique flow of contrast. Ultramarines are another Space Marine chapter that are commonly associated with the colour yellow. Casandora Yellow can be used to create a warm, sunny glow on their armour and models, and can be used to create shading and depth on their infantry, tanks, and other equipment.For most hobby painters, adding decals is challenging and not worth the effort. But, if you want to go that extra mile, then decals can add that extra level of realism or immersion. As you’ll see in the images, I simply took an inexpensive synthetic brush and applied a heavy undiluted coat of the contrast paint over the model. The Kroxigor is a lovely model and also very easy to assemble. I ended up using some liquid green stuff to fill some small gaps, but hard to know if that was my failure to fit the model properly or the nature of the kit. A vivid alternative to Aethermatic Blue, this acts as a partner to Pylar Glacier, giving you even more choices in the blue range of the spectrum.

Now, as you’ve noticed that some of the surfaces on your model are splotchy where the Yellow Contrast Paint has pooled on the open, flat surfaces. On a space marine, this may mean you have uneven coverage (darkened spots) on the shoulder pauldrons, or along the leg armor plates. 4. Dry brush with a complementary yellow paint This is a lovely kit and I’m really happy with the results. There certainly were many fiddly bits, with many ropes and hidden crevices breaking up the surfaces and hiding out of sight. You’ll also need to decide for yourself if you want to go with the facemasks or not, but overall this is a very distinctive team (with clearly identifiable positionals!) that makes a great visual impact on the pitch. For this project, I used an airbrush to coat my models with gray Vallejo surface primer in a spray booth.

Coda’s Davonic Badlands Extravaganza

Small bits of gravel were added in front bottom area and on the greenstuff with superglue. Sand was put down with PVA glue over the green stuff and also under the ledge and around the bits of gravel. Then agrellan earth was spread across the front area that was still bare base. In June, we invited Warhammer TV painting presenter Emma Robinson to talk about her favourite colours and some inspired uses for them. Today we’ve got her co-host, Lizzie Ward, to talk about her 10 favourite paints from the new range and how she has been using them. This will be called something different in other places. Go to your hardware store and show them a few photos from this article and you’ll be fine. For most of my Imperial Fist army, I used regular acrylic model paints. But, then I discovered Citadel’s Contrast Colours, which speed up the base coating process. I review Citadel Contrast colors here.