The three lightest silvers (Aluminium, Chrome and Sliver) are all the same as far as I can tell. I bought and used all three, and I just cannot see any difference. We want a nice, colder gold over a warm redish gold. So don’t worry about putting down a layer of retributor armour. Instead….

Lord of the Night by Simon Spurrier. A long lost Night Lord from the heresy goes up against an entire planet alone. Until ADB’s Night Lords trilogy this was the go-to for source material about the 8th legion. These are the armies that I would recommend painting with Liberator Gold, as they all have a lot of metallic and machinery elements that would benefit from the shine and metallic look of this paint. Liberator Gold Colour Schemes & CombinationsMix a ton of Lahmian Medium into Kabalite green. Do a few layers of this Starting at the mid point of one half of the sword. The at the same point, hit the otherside of the sword blade and go towards the tip. Continue to do layers of this, progressively moving away from the center of the sword. Jokes aside, Night Lords are my fave traitor legion. Their lore is great and the concept of various warbands of these major screw ups roving around the galaxy is great for creating your very own group of deluded murderers. There is also an element of Kurze totally and utterly failing his sons on every level, dooming them to their current tragedy of an existence that I personally enjoy.

When it comes to pairing colors with Liberator Gold, it’s important to consider color theory and the principles of complementary, split-complementary, and analogous color combinations. I'm currently using GW Citadel metallic paints but they're running low and I need to re-up. I'm thinking of switching to the newer metallic paints. The blue shoulder pauldrons are one of the most distinctive parts of the Hammers of Sigmar and they stand out a lot amongst the gold around the top half of the miniature. To paint them I gave a smooth layer of Citadel Kantor Blue, washed it with Citadel Drakenhof Nightshade shade, then reapplied the Kantor Blue, leaving the shade around the edges of the blue, and in the dip next to the ridge nearest the miniature’s head. Next I added some Vallejo White to the Kantor Blue and and highlighted the lower portion (the side furthest from the head) and the top of the ridge (nearest the head). I then added more White to the previous mix and did one final highlight along the bottom edge of the lower portion, and across the top of the ridge. The shoulder symbol was painted using pure White. After painting the main colours I always enjoy adding details to the armour. This is mostly custom warpaint, a few bits of script, and on some of the bigger models I paint some feathers. These little details always make a big difference to my Space Marines, giving them each some extra character.* Darcy: Imperial FistsI was wondering how close in color the new ones are the the "old" ones I have. Also what is the main difference in the type of paint it is. Thanks. Shade the shit out of the entire model with Drakenhoff Nightshade. Really go to town on this. GW reccos Nuln Oil for this, but I feel that destroys the really nice blue you get if you use Drakenhoff. Hit rivets etc with Army Painter Soft Tone, be as precise as a laser guided bomb here. Use it sparingly. In addition, most advertising networks offer you a way to opt out of targeted advertising. If you would like to find out more information, please visit http://www.aboutads.info/choices/or http://www.youronlinechoices.com.

Using mainly an olive green and yellow colour scheme for the squad, I opted to add an accent colour of deep red, both for the Sergeant’s helmet stripe and for personal heraldry on the powerfists. As we currently don’t make transfers for the Mantis Warriors Chapter, I had to freehand the insignia and opted for the older (easier to paint) emblem – which seems perfectly fitting for 1st Company veterans of the Badab War.Finish the model off with some basing. I do all of my Night Lords with snow/winter bases. So for most of them, I paint the base with Reaper Ghost White, then I cover the base with Valhallan Blizzard texture paint. I used to use Mourn Mountain Snow for this but that stuff looked like white dirt, and the new texture paint looks much more like actual snow. I decided to paint my Sternguard as Crimson Fists as I love their classic Rogue Trader era aesthetic. To this end, I kept the paint recipe simple and finished the look with a retro brown base rim.

Adeptus Mechanicus: The Adeptus Mechanicus is a faction of the Imperium that is heavily focused on technology and machinery. Their soldiers are heavily augmented with cybernetic enhancements, and their vehicles and weapons are often highly advanced and ornate. Liberator Gold is an excellent choice for painting the intricate details and gears of the Adeptus Mechanicus’ machinery, as it helps to bring out the metallic and technological look of their equipment. Retibutor has only one other competitor for a Base gold paint, and that's Balthasar Gold. I have to say, as a gold paint, it far outshines its predecessor. That's not to say Balthasar is bad, in fact I love that paint. If you are being fair though Balthasar Gold isn't really a gold paint, it's more accurately a brass or copper. Retributor Gold though is exactly what it says it is. It's a rich, deep, and fairly bright gold color. I am beyond excited that I finally have a real gold Base paint. In our How to Paint Everything series, we take a look at different armies of the Warhammer universe, examine their history and heraldry, and look at several different methods for painting them. By popular demand, this week we’re looking at how to paint the terrifying VIII legion, the Night Lords. The Night Lords We live in dark times. With the Imperium shattering we need new leadership structures to come though. We need the bravest space marine legion. A legion that doesn’t specialise in running aw- Mix in some Stormhost Sliver in your Liberator Gold. Do a thicc highlight. Seriously almost layer it on.

Blog Archive

They are useful, but I do use them far less than the main metallic quads (I bought all three sets); so though each 8 paint set is cheaper than buying them individually, it's not 50% cheaper. Depends whether you'd think you'd use the alchemy add ons as to whether you just buy the quads as single paints. You can see my method of painting the white shoulder symbol on the Celestar Ballista crew video around the 17 minute mark. The copper quad is "decayed metal", "victorian brass", "old copper" and "pure copper". I find these less useful, as I usually want a brass rather than a copper effect (think polished brass instruments, or ornaments); these are definitely biased more towards a red-hued copper of different ages. If you want a copper range though, they are great. Washes – time to do some fast shading. I use Carroburg Crimson on the red parts, Nuln Oil on the metal parts, Coelia Greenshade on the cabling, and Agrax Earthshade on the gold trim and bone parts. I also use Carroburg Crimson and Nuln oil to shade the upper right corners of the gemstone.