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The cold shoe is commonly used to keep the additional item close to the center of the camera’s gravitational area. Flashes which can do TTL must be compatible with the camera system brand, specifically must specify iTTL for Nikon, or ETTL for Canon, etc (this compatibility is called brand dedication, dedicated to work with one camera system brand). TTL specifications must mention being dedicated to your camera brand (says "for Nikon", etc). Among other things, the hot shoe pins are different among brands. Radio trigger. Almost all are Manual flash only, but now there are a few that can support TTL. Some are relatively inexpensive. This is a transmitter attachment on hot shoe and a receiver on the flash, which triggers the flash via radio. Good outdoors in sun, or over greater distances, or through opaque obstructions. But indoors, frankly more hookup connections, and more power switches to remember, and more battery concerns makes me strongly favor optical slaves (indoors).
Camera manufacturers do not really recommend their cameras be paired with flashes from other brands. Ten foot ceilings need more power or ISO. These next are vague numbers with ifs and buts which depend on distance and zoom, but I'd say standing under a normal 10 foot white ceiling, Maximum level that works well at (about) f/5.6 is: Nikon SB-800 ISO 200, SB-700 ISO 400, or SB-400 ISO 800. The problem with ISO too high is that it hurts white balance by increasing the orange incandescent or green fluorescent room lights too. But skating on the edge at maximum power is an iffy risk for TTL automation, and instead, a little more ISO should usually be comfortable there, allowing safety factor when moving around, and faster recycle. The numbers assume you and subject are standing. If sitting on the floor with the kids, the ceilings are a lot higher. This means that the ambient has a chance to do its thing, and just before the exposure ends, the flash fires. This can help light trails make sense as the they will "follow" the subject rather than precede it due to the delayed firing of the flash. The hot shoe on a camera can be used to attach various accessories and can be used for various reasons: 1. External Flash Unit The Metz Mecablitz 64 AF-1 is a top of the line flashgun, with an expensive price tag to go with it. Is it worth the money then? The answer is yes, and you’ll have a great pro level strobe.The really cheap price and simple controls make this a great choice if you’re new to flash. Wedding photography always needs a good camera flash, and the knowledge of how to use it. Yongnuo YN560 IV Bounce is not difficult with decent flash power, but you will need decent power for bounce. We can never have too much bounce power. High ISO helps, but when in excess, also increases seeing the orange incandescent ambient lighting too. The various options and flexibility of the external hot shoe open up many new possibilities in your hot shoe photography. Nissin Di700: This is the flagship speedlight in the Nissin range. It has a 2.4 ghz transceiver built-in and does all the things a Speedlight should do. p>http://www.photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00RxD9
Canon’s best and most expensive camera flash is the 600EX II-RT. It’s a formidable unit, with a flash power that’s not surpassed by any other flashes in this article. It’s a great hot-shoe flash which can be used for portrait sessions or weddings. If you’re new to flash the operating system is also straight forward. Cell phone flash units are LEDs that are pulsed at a high power to give off an amazing amount of light. Do it too often without letting it cool down and you can wind up with a repair bill. Auto mode is auto everything, not allowing any control, and it will want to open the popup flash door, and it will use Auto ISO and Auto White Balance (You set those in A or P or M mode if you want them on, and in A or P or M, you open the internal flash door if you want to use it). Except note that Auto ISO cannot be used with Manual flash (flash cannot respond to it), and it's a great idea to turn it off for TTL too. Auto ISO indoors will just increase the ambient to make the orange incandescent lights be objectionably orange.It is the camera that meters TTL flash and sets the flash power level (including third party TTL flash units). However, the camera meter that we see is only about the ambient light, and the settings it controls are about ambient. The camera has another invisible meter system for TTL flash, to set the flash power level for the settings that flash discovers is already in effect. Then the hot shoe communication tells the TTL flash what power level to use. The flash only has to flash as told. Flashes do need reliability and consistency to comply and perform well, accurate and repeatedly, always the same as was set, manual flash mode too. But it is the camera that controls TTL flash. Proprietary camera systems that only work with system flashes (for example, Nikon Commander), a "smart" optical system that relays encoded data to the flash (like request for TTL preflash, or to send power level to the remote). This is the multiple flash TTL system for digital cameras (there are no TTL cables for flash on digital cameras). This complex system has more downsides than the others (obstacles to direct line of sight, distance, and sunlight), but multiple TTL flash is big advantage (but individual control is typically limited to two, or in some cases three flash units).
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