Finish Line Teflon Synthetic Grease

Product Information

Somewhat wider use temperature range than ordinary lithium greases (completely irrelevant for bicycle bearing lubrication use). Usually have better resistance to corrosion and water washout, similar to that of calcium greases. https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-businesses/heavy-duty-lubricants/products/mobil-delvac-1-gear-oil-75w-90/

Same as with graphite additive greases (5.3.), but without any negative impact on bicycle bearings. So lithium, or calcium greases with MoS 2won’t be bad for bearings, just needlessly expensive.History [ edit ] Advertisement of the Happy Pan, a Teflon-coated pan from the 1960s Advertisement for Zepel, the trade name used to market Teflon as a fabric treatment PTFE thermal cover showing impact craters, from NASA's Ultra Heavy Cosmic Ray Experiment (UHCRE) on the Long Duration Exposure Facility (LDEF) Logo of Teflon, the commonly known brand name of PTFE-based compositions manufactured by Chemours Bicycle bearings don’t require any special grease IMO, as I’ve (tried to) explained in this post. Most any will do, while you can hardly go (measurably) better than a good quality lithium complex soap based grease with mineral base oil. Dirt intrusion (the main reason why bottom headset bearings get busted a lot sooner than the top ones). Mixed soap greases. Similar to complex greases, except two different metal hydroxides are used, usually lithium-calcium, or sodium-aluminium. They have superior characteristics to other soap greases (even complex ones), but their price is higher, they are less easily available and are seldom used.

Many soft metals, like copper, silver, gold, zinc, lead etc. have low shear resistance and can be used as a lubricant, put in a thin layer over sliding hard surfaces. Soft metal films are useful for tempereatures up to 1000°C, but are less often used nowadays. Easily compared yes, but you don’t do it once in the entire article. Not once do you actually compare the greases on any scientific metric.” For pressing in the bearings (not for lubrication of moving parts), I prefer (and recommend) using some kind of anti-seize, not grease. Because it provides long(er) term protection from seizing (corrosion), helping both with mounting and dismounting. Grease can be relied upon for only up to one year, if not even shorter period, for anti-seize protection. Products sold as “copper grease” are quite good for that task. Minimal 4 ball weld test of 1000 N or better was a safe margin recommended by the post’s co-author, an expert on the subject, Stevan Dimitrijević. If you have relevant data that proves otherwise, please share it, I’d be more than happy to link it and correct the data in the post.”Usual characteristics” in the heading is written because various manufacturers (and concrete grease models) use various ingredient qualities, so final product characteristics may vary. Concrete characteristics a finished grease possesses is usually written on the label, either in the form of a marketing slogan, or (more reliably) by noting DIN and/or ISO standard that a grease complies with. Characteristics like lowest and highest use temperature, water washout resistance etc. Would be useful to have some discussion on “carbon safe” as well as rubber o-ring safe and even plastic (grease for shifters) safe. Not that I blame you for not diving into that as there’s a lot of mixed opinion out there. Really that’s about the only reason I’d ever recommend someone buy a bicycle specific grease is that it may specifically guarantee compatibility while an automotive grease wouldn’t (which doesn’t mean it’s not compatible, it’s just not explicitly stated). Yes, the working range of the grease is written on the label of said grease. Duh. However, the working range ISN’T determined by grease type! All lithium grease are NOT ONE RANGE!”