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Because of its clear and lasting connection to athletes and working men, the henley only becomes a truly timeless piece when it’s had its face rubbed in the dirt a few times. It is not meant to stay crisp and new for long. It’s meant to be used and abused. Like jeans, a white or cream henley is never fully our own until it’s started to take on sepia tones. There should be considerable weight to the garment. This isn’t soft-as-silk cotton. Yes, it’s soft and comfortable, but it’s also a warmth-giving base layer. The knit should feel extremely breathable. A low-tension weave will be the mediating layer between your skin and the air around you. This breathability is key to temperature, which is key to comfort. Great henleys are made to last. Their makers expect that they will be worn next to the skin, and worn over and over and over again. You can feel this in the cuffs, which don’t relax, even after multiple washes. They keep going, and they keep fitting great. Rugged yet refined: Take a short-sleeve henley shirt in a light color with a textured weave. Add your favorite summer-weight navy blazer, one with soft shoulders and no lining. Pair with light wash jeans and leather Chelsea boots. Loop & Weft is relatively new to the scene. They might not have the vintage bonafides of a Merz, but what they do have is a clear passion for their craft. Founded by denim veteran Ryota Seguchi in 2011, the company started with a clear vision: assemble a line of meticulously constructed cotton garments that will pair perfectly with raw denim.
Other Real McCoy’s henleys to consider: USN Wool Henley Undershirt (warm and military-grade tough), Double Diamond Eyelet Knit Henley (looks a thousand years old brand new), Double Diamond Wale Knit Henley (micro-rib classic) Rub the face of the garment between your fingers. It shouldn’t feel thin or flimsy. At the same time, it shouldn’t be stiff or rough to the touch. It shouldn’t feel silky smooth either, but you should feel a strong desire to put the henley on and feel it next to your skin. Okayama Denim ships from Japan. If you’re looking for other places to buy Studio D’Artisan, try: Redcast Heritage (Spain), Corlection (Australia), Self Edge (USA), Rivet & Hide (UK), Son of a Stag (UK)
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The differences between a well-made henley and a barely passable one might not be immediately apparent, but once you know what to look for, you’ll have no trouble telling the pretenders from the genuine well-made article. For the henley to be truly adaptable, it needs to be well made. The cuffs keep their shape, and the collar doesn’t wilt like a slice of processed cheese. For the henley to work its magic, it needs to have a little bit of heft, and it needs to be prepared to go the distance with us. You might already be incorporating a henley or two into your looks. If this is an area of your wardrobe where you’ve settled for mass-market, the henley is probably not doing much more than keeping you warm (and even that might be a stretch). With the basics, it’s all about the little things, the crucial little details that turn a henley from a disposable garment to an indispensable one. Here’s what to look for. What It’s Made of
If you want the best selection, try one that specialises in vintage workwear. They’re the ones most likely to have at least a few of the well-made and essential henleys we’ve included on this list. Finally, the colour is important here. A crisp, white henley is a must for some folks, but we’re keener on off-whites, vibrant blues, and textured greys. You won’t see any striped patterns on the list below, but this doesn’t mean that patterns are out. The best makers, though, tend to work their magic with solid colours and simple palettes. When not just any blue will do, it’s got to be Pure Blue Japan. They are the undisputed world champions when it comes to textured, vibrant blues. Though their reputation is largely based on their slubby and character-drenched denim, they’ve really upped their basic game in recent years. Their slubby tees and longsleeves have leapt off the shelves, and it’s not hard to see why when you get up close with one. The reasons for the shirt’s popularity are fairly obvious. Whether made of thin cotton or wool, it provides a warm base layer for cool mornings or evenings. When the day’s work properly begins, it can be unbuttoned and the sleeves (if long) can be rolled up to the elbows. It can be worn as a base layer or as a stand-alone shirt.Freenote Cloth ship from the USA. If they are sold out, or if you’re looking for other places to buy the brand, start with these: Franklin & Poe (US), American Classics London (UK), Stuff (Germany), Populess (Canada) They’re a pillar of comfortable and fashionable looks, and we’re going to help you find one that will be the first thing you reach for in the morning. Well-Made Henleys Are Timeless In the kingdom of shirts, the henley is the baron of brawn. It’s the most rugged of the lot. It's Ryan Gosling in Drive, his white henley stained with grease at the auto shop; it's cool and effortless, nonchalant and casual, the easiest thing in your wardrobe to shrug on and style.
Their 100% cotton henley, like the SDA, is a simple, no-frills design. The cuffs don’t announce themselves as anything special, and the white is as basic as it comes. This thing really shines in the other details, though.Well-Made Essentials » Henleys Buying Guide to Well-Made and Essential Henleys Every Denimhead Should Consider As one of the Osaka Five, Studio D’Artisan is a name that is perfectly at home on any of our essential lists. They helped put Japanese denim on the map, and they continue, year after year, to produce landmark, category-leading pieces. Their ultra-soft white henley in Suvin Gold cotton is a perfect example of this.
Clutch Café ships from the UK. If they’re sold out, or if you’re looking for other places to buy Pherrow’s, try: Son of a Stag (UK), directly from Pherrow’s (Japan), Maplestore (Australia) The best makers use loopwheeled cotton. What selvedge is to denim, loopwheel is to cotton, and it’s even easier to spot once you know what to look for. Loopwheeled cotton is woven around a cylinder, so it has a huge advantage over other forms of cotton: no side seams. Once you’ve ditched the side seams, the premium you pay for loopwheeled tees and henleys (and that trademark tubular fit) is more than worth it. Other Merz b. Schwanen henleys to consider: 206 Henley (fewer vintage details), 204 Henley (roomier version of the 206), TR206 Good Training Henley (sporting henley with Merz branding) Clean and classic: Take a short-sleeve henley. Roll the sleeves up a touch. Unbutton a button (or two). Pair with dark blue jeans and canvas high-top sneakers. Boom: Gosling mode activated. Okayama Denim ships from Japan. If you’re looking for other places to buy Loop & Weft, try Blue in Green (USA), Those That Know (UK)Other Freenote henleys to consider: The 13 oz. Henley is also available in Faded Blue, Midnight, and Rust Stuff ships from Germany. If they’re sold out, or if you’re looking for other places to buy Phigvel, try: Nakamuraya (USA), Lieutenant & Co (Australia), directly from Phigvel (Japan) For Size/Fit Perspective: Note that I’m 6’2″ / 195 lbs, and all henleys shown below are a size Large. Also, the watch is a Seiko SND253 on an after market leather strap. Bought it for the slide rule and to keep all the Rolex wearing consultants I run into on their toes. Other PBJ henleys to consider: Hemp Blend Henley (with horizontal stripes) available in Indigo x Blue and Indigo x Red
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