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Posted 20 hours ago

Hammerite Kurust Rust Remover for Metal. Rust Treatment and Rust Converter for Metal Interior and Exterior to Remove Brown Spots - 90ml

£30.445£60.89Clearance
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About this deal

One side of the steel sample was left unpainted while the other was sprayed with a single coat of primer and acrylic top coat, replicating a typical DIY repair. Once dry, the samples were then doused daily in salty water for four weeks to encourage any corrosion to reappear. We then scored them on ease of use, rust-resisting performance and price. Verdict Use Oil, now alot of people say use old engine oil and put it in a spray gun, I once asked an engineer about this and he said it could have negative effects becuase of the other chemicals that have gotten mixed in with the oil while it was in the engine and could actually eat in to the metal (if thats true or not i dont know, but it seems a good point), thats also why I said use clean grease too, so if it was me id put oil on thats never been used. After you have blasted them mix just a small amount of the epoxy and apply it with a paint brush. It can then be left untill you are ready to prep and paint. So I would touch up the rust spots with 87 / 90a rub level with the surrounding paint then prime the whole area with standard epoxy primer.

Use waxoil, this is great stuff however does dry out after so long not sure how long but it does, so has to be re-applied (if it was me id do it before every winter) We left sections of 1mm unpainted mild steel to gently corrode outside over the course of several months, then let them thoroughly dry before treating both sides with our products, carefully following the instructions. Oil and grease contamination will prevent the conversion First of all, a lot of the the underneath of most cars, especially Land Rovers, is contaminated with oil and grease from leaking oil seals etc. On oil or grease contaminated areas, unless the underside is extremely thoroughly cleaned, degreased, and then completely dried, the rust converter will not work. So you are very likely to have the nightmare scenario of an ineffective, poorly adhering coating sitting between the rusty surface and any coating of rustproofing wax, making the rustproofing wax totally ineffectual. Waxoyl, and my similar, more formulted CR coating, are petrochemicals very similar to oil and grease from leaking seals of mechanical parts on the underbody. here is the rusty metal that I will be painting today. I have wire brushed it and cleaned it as instructed by Hammerite themselves. But it didn’t last. By the end of our month the coating had almost completely disappeared from our unpainted metal and spots of rust were starting to break through to the other side too. And while it appears to be cheap, the bottle is tiny at just 90ml, making it seem poor value. Verdict

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If you can get 87A go for it, 90A is available in smaller tins but the 87 is great for your application. Don't use sand because of the health risks and do wear the proper PPE which must include a decent mask. Clean the surface by removing all loose paint, rust, dirt, grease and salt. Then rinse with water and let the surface dry. So that’s what Kurust looks like, almost a milky substance, I don’t know what I was expecting to be honest but here it is. The Metal or sand blast it, but this is a painstaking process and not everyone has a sand blaster :L also to do it right would require dropping of the subframe.

But it offered very little in the way of long-term protection to our sample. The unpainted area was uniformly rusty again and it was starting to develop on the other side too. Loctite SF7503 Rust Remedy The other gun will work - but the media will go everywhere and cover everything - not good. Works in a confined space like an empty garden shed where you can put a tarp down and collect the media for reuse. Hammerite tends to be the ‘go-to’ brand for rust protection products, as its paints work so well and need very little preparation. Instead of spending hours underneath a car with a wire brush, you can just slap them onto bare, rusty metal. There are places where Hammerite isn’t ideal though, such as bodywork where you need to overpaint. For these you can use Kurust. It works well, giving the same level of protection in out tests as the Bilt Hamber with just a few spots appearing by the end of our month.Waxoyl or Before 'n' After's improved Waxoyl or the Before 'n' After CR coatings are infinitely better at killing rust than rust converters. The rust converter plus waxoyl may appear at first sight like "belt and braces" but the fact is that the rust converter will just ruin the whole job. I havent got to this stage so ill list the options ive set myself to decide, im also thinking of doing some experiments with the different methods on a peice of metal leave it in the weather a few weeks see what happens.

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