Citadel Shade Druchii Violet

Product Information

When I took on Custodes I was happy that the person who I painted them for wanted something other than the classic gold. As much as I love a really nice rich gold colour, I find it pretty overwhelming on the Custodes models. Instead, I went for a striking red-dominated scheme, with darker bronze metallics.

Blue/Grey Cloth: – Base with Dark Reaper. – Wash with Coelia Greenshade. – Highlight with Dark Reaper. – Edge Highlight with Thunderhawk Blue. The pink is Liquitex INK! Magenta painted over the tongue. You may find yourself having to re-do the base after the blue gets everywhere; for the tongue don’t worry about applying more drybrushing or anything. I just cover the mistakes with Bonewhite and move on. For a little extra depth you can apply a wash of AP Purple Tone, but it’s not necessary in this case. Thin layers of Basalt Grey were used to blend the shadows and highlights, smoothing the transitions.White Armour: – Wash with Apothecary White, keep an eye out for pooling in the crevices and draw it away before it sets too much. – Soft Drybrush VGC Ghost Grey with a round-tipped makeup brush. – Edge Highlight the most raised parts of the armour with White Scar.

More washes. I want to retain a pale look, so I washed the flesh bits with a 50/50 mix of Agrax Earthshade and Druchii Violet, then I did a couple thin coats of Druchii Violet around the eyes and a ring of Nuln Oil to give the eyes a smoky, shadowy look on her face. My yellow armor is painted fairly simply following a method from The Mighty Brush. I prime in tan, pre-shade with VMA Mud and Rust, add a highlight of Insignia White, then lightly airbrush layers of Medium Yellow over until I’m happy with the vibrance. I do some edge highlights with Phalanx Yellow and a pinwash of AK Paneliner for Sand and Desert to finish up the yellow, after which it gets weathered primarily by sponging Rhinox Hide. Green Chitin and Cloth: – Wash with Terradon Turquoise. – Layer with Lupercal Green, leaving the deepest recesses. – Highlight with Kabalite Green, focusing on the raised areas of the cloth/carapace. – Edge Highlight with Sybarite Green – Edge Highlight any bladed/horned parts of the carapace with Dawnstone. (Larger areas of Chitin on Metamorphs/Purestrains, Patriarch can be carefully Drybrushed instead for a more naturalistic, less clean look).Reikland Fleshshade wash all over the skin, including the mouth where we’ll just leave that shading as is Layer up the armor – this will give a nice white armor effect with shading that is actually visible but that still reads as white: You may have noticed that Rippy is a bit of an oddity, a Ripper of Unusual Size if you will. I made him by using some pieces that most Tyranid players end up with a lot of; a Trygon skull cap, toxin sacs, extra claws, and a Genestealer head. You can see how it all comes together in the image below. More adventurous modelers who worry about people looking “under the shell” so to speak are welcome to shove Green Stuff into the gaps and make it look suitably organic. Personally I just tell people that Rippy would appreciate it if they didn’t violate his personal space. Rippers. Credit: Primaris Kevin Additional colors on this mini include Stormfiend for the scales, Garaghak’s Sewers for the wood, Targor Rageshade for the skin of the reptilian beast and Berseker Bloodshade for the scarring. For the Xenos…

Highlight almost all the gold with Scale 75 Dwarven Gold, leaving the Necro Gold in just the recesses.

Cult of the Warmason by CL Werner is primarily about the Sisters of Battle going up against a Genestealer Cults infestation on the shrine world of Lubentina. Highlight almost the entire jewel with Ahriman Blue (leave some of the previous layer showing at the edges). Based on color theory and the concept of making a complementary color palette, it was decided to list these particular paints. Ushabti Bone and Fire Dragon Bright are analogous to orange and yellow, respectively.

That pretty much covers it. I’m happy with the final model and it wasn’t nearly as much time to paint as I expected it might take.The other negative is, of course, the new pots. While the price has stayed the same, both new and old shades have been moved over to the 18ml Contrast-sized paints. Nothing avoids inflation (or shrinkflation, as it were). Similar riff on a theme here! For my skink I started out with a zenithal prime. The main body scheme follows the same steps as the red cloth recipe I used for my Sons of Velmorn. I started with a Zenithal prime, then airbrushed Encarmine Red followed by Pure Red and Archangel Red From above. After that I drybrushed Evil Sunz Scarlet then Troll Slayer Orange, and followed it with a 2:1 contrast medium to Blood Angels Red Glaze. If you don’t have an airbrush or want to skip steps, you can just prime Wraithbone, apply Blood Angels red and go straight to drybrushing Evil Sunz Scarlet and Troll Slayer Orange. Because the surface tension (I think) is higher, the shade pulls away from the edges and vertical surface and does a better job of concentrating in the recesses. This left my edges alone and I was able to move on without any touchups! I find it really useful to paint the heads as a separate subassembly, it really helps to get the faces right if you have 360 degree access to them, rather than struggling to paint them when they’re surrounded by a high collar. Ushabti Bone: Ushabti Bone is a light beige color that works well with Druchii Violet, as it provides a contrasting lightness to the darkness of the purple shade. It also helps to create a sense of balance in the color scheme.