Games Workshop Citadel Layer: Yriel Yellow

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Somehow it took Games Workshop until the end of the 2010s to realize one important fact: People like pets. 40k saw the release of Kill Team: Rogue Trader, which included an extremely good boy, while Age of Sigmar has embraced Khornedogs, Gryph-Hounds, and Aetherwings for the Bloodbound and Stormcast factions. Where they’ve really outdone themselves is, as is so often the case, in Necromunda, where every gang has had an associated pet to accompany their gang leaders. Even Enforcers are getting in on the fun! Credit: Games Workshop For the rusted chips and deep scratches, I used Chipping colour from Ammo of Mig (or you can use any Dark Brown colours for this method). I applied this colour on some previous light chips, scratches, edges, or on the exposed or heavy use areas. These armies were chosen as they are all part of the Xeno factions, and they all make use of yellow in their armor, machinery or energy fields in a way or another. Yriel Yellow is a great paint for achieving a bright and vibrant yellow that works well for these factions, and it could be used as an alternative to other yellow colors. Yriel Yellow Colour Schemes & Combinations

What you’re looking for in your first coat of primer is a very smooth surface. The smoother your early priming layers, the easier it will be to paint the rest of the model. Make sure mold lines are removed and you don’t create any bubbles in your primer. Yellow is already a flaky, unreliable color. Don’t add to your troubles with a poor primer foundation. Now I mix my paint with water on a wet palette. But I've also had success with Liquitex Matte Medium and water. There are other additives you can try as well, you've just got to play with it and see what works for you. Spend the time to prepare your models for paint and save a lot of time later. 2. Apply a single coat of Yellow Citadel Color Contrast Paint

Lastly, it’s time to highlight all the metals. This is the longest part of the process, but the one that makes all those details pop and brings the scheme together. I went with Stormhost Silver, as I wanted to maximize the contrast and definition of these models. Normally I’d do some weathering too, but these models are already so busy that adding scratches and such just seems like it would be too much. To fix uneven open surfaces, I take a regular model paint with a similar yellow color as my base coat paint and prepare to dry brush. In this case, the closest color to the base coat Iyanden Yellow is Citadel Yriel Yellow. For most hobby painters, adding decals is challenging and not worth the effort. But, if you want to go that extra mile, then decals can add that extra level of realism or immersion. You can use this technique on owls from Games Workshop too. I switched the basecoats out for Zandri Dust but otherwise it’s the same process. Owl. Credit: Lupe

This bonded pair of Squigs found their way into my home when I got a box of Zarbaj’s Jitz with my Adepticon swag bag last year. The two have been inseparable since I adopted them, only leaving each other’s side to maul whatever poor fool decided to get too close to their territory. My paintscheme for Zarbaj and his Jitz involves a lot of purple and yellow, so I forewent the typical reds and oranges you see Squigs come in, and went instead for a pinkish purple. I think it’s pretty fashionable. And, then you’ll still have to figure out how to shade your yellow base coat once you’ve airbrushed it on your model. Problems, problems… Glazing with an airbrush helps blend color. This even works well with…Yellow. http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis_info.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelcolor&p3=1#modelcolorinfo I was tired of cleaning up after myself, so I decided to adopt this little fella in the hopes that maybe the floor would be a little less messy. The good news is that it worked great; my floors are bare. The bad news is that he’s also eaten the leather couch, three of the neighborhood cats, and both of my legs. “Rippy” the Ripper. Credit: Kevin GensonOptional) This step is difficult to explain but basically, I shade the model using VMC Goldbrown. I do a mix of glazing, and recess shading and in some places straight layering. VMC Goldbrown is an ever so slightly darker but less opaque version of VGC Heavy Goldbrown so doing this results in a much less flat model. Time to add depth. There are two steps here – the first is to take a thinner brush and paint in the recesses and around the contours with Cassandora Yellow shade – this gives the model much more definition and makes the raised parts stand out. The other piece of this is edge highlighting. I trace around the edges with Flash Gitz Yellow and do some small spots of the color on the raised ovals. Basecoat VGC Heavy Goldbrown (Many conversion charts will tell you this is a GW Averland Sunset equivalent but it is not, it is mustardy whereas Averland is orange-ish. If anything it is Averland Sunset with some Zandri Dust mixed into it, they are not perfect substitutes for each other.) The only time I feel alive is when I'm painting. Vincent Van Gogh

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You may have noticed that Rippy is a bit of an oddity, a Ripper of Unusual Size if you will. I made him by using some pieces that most Tyranid players end up with a lot of; a Trygon skull cap, toxin sacs, extra claws, and a Genestealer head. You can see how it all comes together in the image below. More adventurous modelers who worry about people looking “under the shell” so to speak are welcome to shove Green Stuff into the gaps and make it look suitably organic. Personally I just tell people that Rippy would appreciate it if they didn’t violate his personal space. Rippers. Credit: Primaris Kevin The Figurementors Magazine: Fantasy Edition – Ever since we made the jump and created The Illustrated Historical Artist there has been overwhelming support and demand for a magazine of the same quality writing and design, showcasing all that is wonderful in the Fantasy genre. As of October 1st, we will be bringing you a bimonthly issue of The Illustrated Fantasy Artist! We already have content lined up for the first four issues and we are really excited about delivering for you a product unsurpassed within our niche market! We have informative and inspiring articles by Alfonso Giraldes, Joaquin Palacios, Arnau Lazaro, Dmitry Fesechko, Camelson, Francesco Farabi and others written by the up and coming generation of painters such as Kristian Simonsen, Chris Suhre, Paolo Di Poce and so many more besides. This promises to be the magazine that all fantasy figure painters have been crying out for. Stay tuned! Realise your dreams with The Illustrated Fantasy Artist, out soon!

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Coat D'Arms match the OLD citadel colours (pre-1992) so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference, This poor cat was left abandoned when the nice old lady who owned her became destined for some kind of horrible giger-esqe kitbash. She was found wandering in the desert, so I gave her the forever-home she deserved. My tip here would be to apply your next coat of contrast color with a small pointed round brush (like a #0 or #1 size) that has stiff bristles. This will give you more control in smaller places on your model. Sure, you won’t cover as much surface area in a single application, but you’ll reduce the risk of making a mistake paint somewhere you don’t want to.