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In this article, we will guide you through the steps of laying a patio on sand, and explain why this is not a good long-term solution. Tools and Materials
Sand - 20kg Dansand NO GROW Block Paving Jointing Sand - 20kg
If you’re keen to repoint the grout between the paving slabs yourself to create a safe and neat finish, here are the tools you’ll need: Simply Paving, 5th Floor, The Elsie Whiteley Innovation Centre, Hopwood Lane, Halifax West Yorkshire, HX1 5ER. Registered office: Bardon Hall, Copt Oak Road, Markfield, Leicestershire, England, LE67 9PJ Some people also choose an epoxy solution for jointing as it can last for several years – however, providing you care for it properly, there’s no reason this won’t work well for you. Protecting the Surrounding Slabs The jointing compound wants a 3mm gap (no problem if much larger like 10mm) and in their example they want to highlight an inch depth, despite being a new install, they will still want you to go an inch down on your old patio – this is pretty much the standard and whilst it never guarantees you hold weeds and insects at bay, you give yourself the best possible chance!When your patio or driveway was poured, chances are that the professionals installed a joint expansion system. Many times, an asphalt-saturated fiberboard or felt was used. But that material decomposes. Everything about never seeing a weed on your patio again is ALL to do with how well you prepare. Following this guide will give you the best possible experience through this project. So let’s get started! Filling gaps between patio pavers is one of those jobs you can just keep putting off – but we all know it needs to be done. With the sand in place, it's time to lay the paving slabs. Begin at one edge of the patio, and work your way across the surface, placing each slab in the desired location. Use a rubber mallet to tap the slabs into place and ensure they are level with one another.
How To Lay Paving Slabs On Sand (Guide)
Before even thinking of laying paving slabs, you need to prepare your patio area. If you’re upgrading paving slabs that are already in place, dig these up before beginning. Dig a depth of around 150mm across the whole area, making sure the soil is evenly compacted. Then tip in the sub-base, raking it into a consistent depth of 100mm. Make sure it’s smooth, flat and firm. Replacing the bed is all about taking out your old mortar mix. Once your stone’s out, make sure to grab a lump hammer or rubber mallet and a bolster chisel. You’re going to need to gently tap and chip away at it carefully so as not to disturb the surrounding stones. Precision is more important here than speed, but the job shouldn’t be too painstaking. When using a dry mix you need to make sure that your patio slabs are completely dry and that there is no rain forecast. This will help make sure that dry mix doesn’t form into clumps and doesn’t stain your slabs, giving decent looking and effective pointing. Once all the existing pointing has been removed, the next stage is to clean the joints thoroughly. We told you it was a time-consuming project!Additionally, while the layer of sand does provide some stability for the slabs, it is not as secure as a full mortar bed. This means that over time, the slabs may shift or move, creating an uneven surface that can be dangerous to walk on. Historically, laying paving slabs on sand was a common practice, particularly in areas with sandy soil. This was because it was a relatively easy and cost-effective way to create a functional outdoor living space that was often installed for the practical hardstanding aspect rather than its aesthetic appeal. Experts recommend starting with small areas first. Say, 10 feet by 10 feet. Use the “shower” setting on a hose nozzle. The goal is to saturate the joint filled with sand. Spray a joint and observe. If the water seeps down into the sand, then it’s not saturated.
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