EverBuild 406 Stabilising Solution 5 Litre

Product Information

Tools and equipment should be cleaned with warm soap and water immediately after use. Pump sprayers especially should be thoroughly flushed through with warm soapy water and then flushed with clean water until free of all residues. DO NOT allow to dry before cleaning. Along with using on chalky or dusty surfaces, stabiliser can also be used on surfaces with high absorption. Some render can be highly absorbent and slightly friable due to the type of sand and mix. So it’s the same as sealing a porous wall. The Bond-It Stabilising Solution is also a great, ready-to-use product that will make sure to prepare your walls for paintwork. This product is incredibly versatile, as it works on a variety of surfaces including concrete, cement, plaster, plasterboard, renders, pebble dash and MDF. Keep in mind to apply this product only in dry weather, above 5°C. It’s not just exterior masonry that can benefit from stabilising solution. Fortunately, there are options for interior surfaces too. I have a small passageway at the side of the house that was built about 30 years ago of wood but in the last 10 years slowly deteriorated until it collapsed in 2018. New builds don’t generally need stabilising. My advice would be to go for a mist coat and top coats. FYI, if you’re looking for good exterior masonry paint, I’d recommend Sandtex (the smooth version rather than textured). Here’s an exterior I painted recently using their white masonry paint:

Realistically and with the right technique, materials and time, you can pretty much prepare any surface in poor condition and bring it up to a "like new" condition Here are some photo's of the wall after all the paint has been taken off. The walls are not in bad condition apart from what I have snapped for you here, so if what appears in the image can be prepped without skimming, then I am confident I can go down that path, as the walls don't have alot of damage other than what I have shown here. Cure all root causes remove all moss & mould contamination by using a product such as Everbuild 404 Fungicidal Wash That's why so often in the trade damaged items, be it woodwork, walls, ceilings, etc, are simply over boarded with plasterboard or timber trims removed and replaced with new. It actually works out cheaper when compared to all the extra labour required to repair and prep these itemsI plan to use Macpherson powerkote, hopefully three coats to give it a strong finish. Do you think the powerkote will be suitable to use?

Allows painting of new render finishes and re-pointing repairs without alkaline contamination of the paint, which would otherwise delay painting by up to 2 months. As we have mentioned, paint manufacturers will often recommend using a specific primer or stabiliser when using their product. This is sometimes essential, especially when using a specialist product. Emperor Paint Exterior Masonry Primer for example is a highly advanced super hydrophobic masonry paint that completely repels water and creates a self-cleaning surface on exterior walls. Due to this technology, you must use their Emperor Paint Exterior Masonry Primer as this contains the same super hydrophobic technology. If you use a standard primer, you can impact the performance of the paint. Which Primer Or Stabilising Solution To Use If painting direct onto wall then yeah , prep like mad, 100% if you like and especially if you want a top finish as I don't believe paint hides a lot of imperfections. Sure a Matt finish can help to hide these where as a silk finish will highlight imperfections I need to repair a shed door. The top half of the door has a frosted window and the bottom part had square panel. Thin the fist coat so that it soaks into the surface but not so thin that is spatters everywhere. It depends on the quality of the paint how much water you should add but start with a small area first so you judge it.I live in France in an old house. Outside, we have the remains of surrounding fortified walls. Some are at least ten foot high. ... It sounds like you have the ideal surface on which to paint. I would use a regular masonry paint – the best quality you can afford. You don’t suggest there are any problems so no need for anything specialised.

The render is a breathable type render, because the wall has damp issues (due to the fact that it wasn't tanked after building and prior to rendering). Some peeps seem to think that lining paper covers all damage with either no or little prep required Have never been a fan of lining walls & then painting them,all to easy to snag the paper especially if you got kids.The white dust is probably efflorescence – moisture in the stonework will draw out any salts and, provided this isn’t excessive, is perfectly normal. If you are looking for a general use exterior primer or stabiliser, a great option is Zinsser Bullseye 1-2-3. When you have removed as much loose material as possible, treat the worst affected areas with a stabilising solution which will bind any reaming loose martial, presenting you with a solid surface on which to paint. Only do this on the very worst affected areas though. Stabilises and hardens “friable” masonry or masonry surfaces which may have “gone soft” due to extreme weathering.