Berber Tattooing: in Morocco's Middle Atlas

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Berber tattoos were undoubtedly initially a distinctive sign, a mark of a tribe. Each clan had its particular designs and decorative composition. All the clan's women were labeled, willingly or forcibly, at the age of puberty. One of the reasons for that is the ability to recognize them in case of kidnappings that followed wars, fights, and raids. Felix & Loretta Leu, both born in 1945, were artists, “freaks”, and adventurers. From 1965, when they met in New York City, until 1978, they travelled and lived in America, Europe, North Africa, India and Nepal, and in time were accompanied by four children, who were all born “on the road”. In 1978 they discovered tattooing as an art form, one with which they could support their family anywhere in the world. In 1981 they chose to settle in Switzerland where they created “The Leu Family’s Family Iron Tattoo Studio”. Felix died of cancer in 2002. Loretta, lives in Switzerland, walks in fields and forests with her two dogs, and is writing a history of her life with Felix. According to legend, Amazigh women would cover themselves with tattoos in the presence of French soldiers in a bid to deter their sexual interest.

Tattooing has boomed in popularity over the last decade. What do you think Felix would make of today’s tattoo scene? One day when we were moved to the city, I decided to do it. I was 14 years old, I asked my mother to do it but she refused," says Masoudi. Another reason why Amazigh women would tattoo themselves was prophylactic. Indeed, these tattoos served to ward off the evil eye for many. Women used them for therapeutic purposes to cure both psychological and physical ailments.Each tribe had its "maalema." She is a master in an art peculiar to its clan, which adorned during a painful and lengthy process, the wives and fiancées with magical designs. The symbols' arrangement, meaning, and names differed from those of neighboring tribes, just as the decorations of the carpets or woven fabrics varied. Therapeutic function: for the Berbers Tattoos have a therapeutic function, since they protect the human being against organic and psychological ailments and protect them from the dangers of acute epidemics and nature. For example, women used tattoos on the overthrow to protect themselves from goiter disease, tattoos on the ankles, Achilles ligament and shoulders protect against sterility, those on the wrists protect against sprains and above the chest. brow bone, they relieve eye pain. In some tribes, tattoos are generally limited to a single point above the chin, one on the right side of the nose to protect against scratches. Within Amazigh ( Berber culture) women were historically tattooed facially. In times pre-dating the arrival of Islam in North Africa the practice was widespread. However since the arrival of the Islamic faith, the belief that to alter a creation of Allah is haram ( forbidden) has lead to the almost complete decline of the practice.

Traces of this tradition can be found since antiquity in Maghreb, which lasted until the 1950s, before the custom disappeared in favor of a more modern and globalized style. This is the reason why today, only the elderly women are adorned with these drawings on their skin, the last witnesses of this ancestral practice. Increasingly we believe the world needs more meaningful, real-life connections between curious travellers keen to explore the world in a more responsible way. That is why we have intensively curated a collection of premium small-group trips as an invitation to meet and connect with new, like-minded people for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in three categories: Culture Trips, Rail Trips and Private Trips. Our Trips are suitable for both solo travelers, couples and friends who want to explore the world together. They are indigenous inhabitants of that region who came with their own language -Tamazight- culture and religion. Amazighs also share a common heritage and linguistic origin with various dialects such as Tachelhit-Tamazight-Tarifit-Taqbaylit and Tamasheq. When I did the tattoo, I did not know that it is forbidden in Islam, when I went to the pilgrimage, I asked about that and they told me that there is no problem, because when I did it I did not know anything, but despite that I'm afraid and I want to remove it," says Taguelmane. ANY TATTOO ENTHUSIAST WILL HAVE HEARD OF THE LEU’S - THE SWISS-BASED TATTOO FAMILY FAMED FOR PIONEERING AND EVOLVING THE ART-FORM OVER TWO GENERATIONSTattooing among both men and women is an integral part of Bedouin culture, particularly among those living in the deserts of the Arabian Peninsula. Aia’s work draws directly from her multicultural and bohemian upbringing. Her work is particularly influenced by both her years spent as a child in India, and the richness of the Irish landscape. Her work is in private collections worldwide, she has had solo shows and contributed to group shows internationally. Her work was on exhibit in the ‘Leu Family Art’ at the Museum Tinguely Basel in Switzerland in 2021. Paintings currently for sale by Aia Leu can be viewed here. Many tattoo designs were of a style and placement on the body so as to offer protection from the evil eye. Indeed the name for Berber tattoos is ‘Jedwel’ meaning Talisman. As you will have understood, tattoos are an important part of the culture and history of the Amazigh people, beyond the simple aesthetics, it is a symbol of belonging and a talisman of protection for who recognizes and wears it!

The rosette, composed of triangles: the one with the point up represents fire and virility, while the triangle with the point down represents water and femininity Berber tattoos were used to determine tribal affiliation and identity, indicate the marital status of women as well as if they were ready for marriage. Aesthetic function: The tattoo is often done in an aesthetic way, which gives women the virtue of beauty. Therefore, the woman places it in different parts of her body, especially the appearance and exactly where it is engraved in the chin, forehead, nose and cheeks. The however is to attract and impress others, like the textual style of many Berber tribes. In other words, tattoos are a kind of makeup that is generally used by women for beauty, arousing admiration, the body becomes a painting canvas with its bright and shiny shapes, lines and colors or a text where the tattoo becomes a speech. This means that the tattoo was the true indication of the beauty of Berber women but also a faithful articulation of her beauty, which impressed others with interest and lust. This trunk tattoo symbolises the rootedness and connexion between the earth, the sky, the divine, and the world and earth energy. It was an honor to receive in the mail another great book from good friend Loretta Leu and the Leu family. “Berber Tattooing in Morocco’s Middle Atlas” by Felix and Loretta Leu documents their return trip through Morocco in 1988 and their stay with one of North Africa’s, and the world’s, oldest tribes. An excerpt from the book explains, ‘Berbers are the indigenous people of North Africa, having been there since the beginning of recorded history. They call themselves Amazigh or free men, and their language, Tamazight, is one of the oldest in humanity… Felix and Loretta Leu with tattooist Khiatya_Batash, 1988 Felix and Loretta Leu with tattooist Khiatya Batash, 1988

Berber women are known for their keen sense of aesthetics. Their colorful traditional clothes and jewels easily stand out against the desert scenery of Maghreb. Culture Trip launched in 2011 with a simple yet passionate mission: to inspire people to go beyond their boundaries and experience what makes a place, its people and its culture special and meaningful — and this is still in our DNA today. We are proud that, for more than a decade, millions like you have trusted our award-winning recommendations by people who deeply understand what makes certain places and communities so special.