ProGold Xtreme Chain Lubricant 4oz, Yellow, One Size

Product Information

Having said that, chain cleaning is a lousy job, so I now use the insitu hot waxing described above.

ProLink Chain Lube Review - Road Bike Rider Cycling Site ProLink Chain Lube Review - Road Bike Rider Cycling Site

I left the factory lube on like Sheldon Brown suggests, but after as little at 200 miles the chain was already 0.5% stretched. The easiest way to switch over to ProLink is simply to apply it to your current chain. (That’s assuming it’s not coated with gummy sludge. If it is, clean it first.) By wetting the links thoroughly, old lube will be loosened and the chain can be wiped clean. Not clean enough? Do it again. And maybe a third time following a ride or two. Graphenlube does appear to reduce friction, and it's certainly pretty tenacious in real-world conditions. It's very expensive, but so are a lot of other bike-related things. If you're the kind of person who looks to buy a bit of extra performance, then here's another thing you can spend your hard-earned on. For the sort of savings you can expect I wouldn't say it was particularly good value, but you might have snaffled all the low-hanging fruit already, or you might not care. And it probably is the best lube I've tried.” Meant to take off the grime slowly. Safe on paint, rubber and plastics. The longer the degreaser sits, the better it works. In general you should always clean your chain thoroughly before lubricating it if you're using conventional lube; lubing a dirty chain will just wash grit into the links where it causes wear.Previous to MB I used the molten wax routine which was great but a lot of work, not worth the hassle. I want to spend time riding my bike, not tinkering with it. The reason I stopped doing that was that the wax treatment only lasted a week or two unless topped up with some other wax lubricant (e.g. Smoove), so in the end I thought it was less trouble to just go with the pre-made lubricant. ProLink is billed as a “metal friction reducer.” It comes with a lot of hype, claiming benefits like smoother, quieter shifting; preventing corrosion; repelling moisture; shedding dirt. But the thing is, our experience says it’s all true. The drivetrain stays clean — not as squeaky clean as with a dry lube like White Lightning, but it won’t make a mess on your pristine road machine. fukawitribe replied to r.glancy: I've found Squirt stays on pretty well (for me anyway) even in the wet - very clean, very easy to apply, not so cheap. I've not tried Smoove yet but heard good things about running it, not so much the actual prep and application, probably give it a whirl at some point though.

Prolink Chain Lube - 4 oz. | REI Co-op ProGold Prolink Chain Lube - 4 oz. | REI Co-op

I had been using White Lightning. Perhaps putting ProLink over that was a mistake. Whatever, drivetrain noise increased and shifting deteriorated. I seemed to need to reapply after 100 miles or less, contrasted with 200 miles or so for WL. Looked at some standard grease in a hardware shop at the weekend - decided to send off for some TF2, a fraction of the quantity, because it's labelled as "for bikes".Chain lube should not cost an arm and a leg. Even our favorite lubes really, should be cheaper. I wish we found a cheap, bio lube that we could sell. But as it is, the two lubes we offer are pretty cheap, in the scheme of things.

chain lubes 2023 - road.cc Best bike chain lubes 2023 - road.cc

This really is one thing where dirt cheap is actually technically superior to all the potions, lotions and sauces they sell by the ounce. The only genuine hassle is the first degrease and clean - but you were doing that between regular lubes already, no? Thereafter I just pre-rinse the chain in boiling water, then rewax. Since I put between 10,000 and 12,000 miles per year on my Cervelo, I want the chains (and drivetrain) to last as long as possible. To ensure this, I have come to only use ProLink. It has always performed excellent on all of my chains. I have tried most Conventional wisdom points to a wet lube for wet winter cycling, and a dry lube for summer cycling when it’s dry and conditions are good. It’s a good rule of thumb to follow and you won’t go wrong if you choose this approach. Cafe wisdom: road.cc readers weigh in on chain lubricants

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If you’re a regular commuter or a year-round long distance cyclist, then a wet lube is going to be our tip for you. It will not only last longer but also handle any weather conditions.