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Sigma 10-20mm f3.5 EX DC HSM Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras with APS-C Sensors

£9.9£99Clearance
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About this deal

So if you are looking for a sharp HSM UWA lens , then it is a good choice as long as you do not shoot in door or architectural stuff , buildings or like that. And the first attraction to any ultra-wide zoom lens is in fact the ultra-wide focal length range, so let's review what this focal length range looks like. All in all, very happy with the lens and PAID for itself with the usage when doing real estate photography. Awesome with landscapes and nature as well. Is actually a bit difficult to use when shooting panoramas because of the edge distortions, especially when in the 10mm range. The two fixed max aperture lenses in this group, the Sigma 10-20 f/3.5 and the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8, hold the aperture advantage. The left side (about 5% of the frame) is softer the the rest of the of the frame - especially from 10-12mm.

Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC HSM Review - Trusted Reviews

I've liked the Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM Lens since it became available - it remains one of the best choices. I'm not a big fan of Sigma's lens finish (others love it), but the rubber-covered zoom and focus rings consume a significant portion of the lens and are nice to use. Point lights look fantastic with this version because of the extra aperture blade with 14 points on the stars making very beautiful looking 'Sunstars'. Is it worth it for this alone... that's a matter of subjective opinion, but I like the 14 points over the 12 points personally. With the lens used at its widest angle and wide open at ƒ/3.5, the lens produces impressively sharp images throughout the majority of the frame (~1.5 blur units) with soft corners occurring only at the extreme edges of the frame. Zooming out these soft edges disappear, and performance is essentially the same between 12-20mm: around 1.5 blur units in the center, and 2 blur units in the corners. I will be using this lens for landscapes as well as photographs of the sunset/sunrise & stars/Milky Way on my D7500. I'm leaning toward the Tokina, but didn't know if the lens justified the price difference.It isn't all roses though. You have be very careful about strong lightsources that may cause flare. This lens is easily prone to lens flare especially at night (and it isn't pretty when it does). I had a light source just left of my frame and the flare came in looking like water spots. Fortunately I could see them in my LCD viewfinder and I recomposed my image. Lenshood doesn't help much to combat this. The lenshood is pretty much pointless, and do be careful with it, for some reason the version I had was very loose and it was very easy to lose the hood in the reverse position. In the active position it wasn't so bad, but either way, it is a pointless accessory. The front 72mm filter thread is by far the largest part of the lens. It moves when zooming by about 10mm. Similarly to the older 10-24mm version, the lens barrel is shortest at about 15mm. When zooming to both ends, it grows in length. The lens is about 73mm long. The rest of the lens body is only about 58mm wide, roughly the same size as the button-retractable kit 18-55mm AF-P lens. Focusing is fast, so quiet I can barely hear it, and the feel of it in the hands is really great. Heavy but worth it's weight. I have an excellent 15mm prime lens that is super sharp, small and light, but still bring the sigma on all my trips. Now that I have given this lens a good tryout, I may well end up putting the Nikkor up for sale. The extra wideangle ability is definitely worthwhile. The resolution of the lens is good enough to keep up with the sensor on my D2x, and it is consistently sharp across the frame, top to bottom and edge to edge. There may be

Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC Interchangeable Lens Review Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC Interchangeable Lens Review

using the deep depth of field these ultra wide angles of view (with narrow apertures of course) give them. Chromatic aberration is a bit higher than in the previous version of the Sigma 10-20mm. While the ƒ/4-5.6 version, wide open at 10mm wasn't bad in the corners, the ƒ/3.5 version is fairly high in the corners (~10/100ths of a percent of frame height) at every aperture setting. Average CA performance is also slightly higher. I am a Nikkor lens user for 35 years and it took me almost 6 months to decide wether to buy this Sigma, the Tokina 12-24 or the Nikon 12-24. I was decided for the Sigma mainly for the 3mm difference in the shortest focal length compared with the other two - and 3mm at the shortest focal length is something to take in consideration, at least for myself. The Nikon was very early discarded from the competition as its price is way out of my boundaries, and the Tokina because its sensitiveness to flare. So, first things first. Like the rest of these focal length ranges, The 10-20mm range will complement 18-something mm lenses very nicely.Available for Canon, Nikon, Sigma and Four Thirds mounts with built-in HSM focusing motor, and Pentax and Sony mounts with focus driven from camera body (non-HSM version) Shading or "vignetting" never gets real bad at the 10mm end, but then decreases relatively slowly as you stop down or zoom towards 20mm. The worst-case light falloff in the corners is only 0.7 EV, decreasing to just over 0.5 EV one stop down from wide open, for most focal lengths. Geometric distortion is quite interesting, in that the maximum level swings from pretty severe barrel distortion (1.3%) at 10mm to slight pincushion (0.29%) at 12mm, holding more or less constant at that level over the rest of the zoom range. What's really interesting though, is that the geometric distortion is almost entirely restricted to the very corners of the frame, so the average distortion level is actually very(!) low: Along the top and bottom of the frame, and along much of the left and right sides, the image is remarkably rectilinear. Sigma's optical engineers have done a very good job of compensating for distortion in the design of this lens! All in all the Nikkor DX 12-24 or the Tokina DX 11-16 are sharper near the edges but the Sigma wins in terms of contrast, resistance against flare and ghosting and AF performance.

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