Buzzy's Slick Honey Cycle Fork Suspension Grease

Product Information

There are some applications where you should only use the approved grease and using the wrong grease really will cause a problem. This includes roller brake grease. This is critical to use the exact grease specified, and unsafe to substitute anything else. Before you put the new foam rings into the fork lowers, you will want to soak the foam rings in a small container of fork fluid. The damper side for the Grip 2 damper specifically uses Fox 5wt Teflon Infused bath oil and the air spring side uses Fox 20wt Gold bath oil. Give the foam rings a few minutes to absorb as much of the fork oil as possible. First, read all the answers you've already received. There's a lesson to be learned, if you look closely. MUC-OFF: Keeping your fork stanchions well lubricated is vital as it reduces the stiction between the wiper seal and the stanchion, which improves small bump sensitivity and trail buzz as the stiction is dramatically reduced. It also helps to keep dirt off the stanchion and seals as the silicon repels dirt and grime to the surfaces cleaner and hence reduces the risk of contaminants getting into the wiper seal (and in turn your fork oil).

Before we get started, remove the fork from your bike and make sure it is nice and clean. Also, make sure you have a clean work environment that way no dirt or grime can get into your nice fork. The easiest way to service your fork is to hold the fork by either the steerer tube or the lower leg in a bike stand. Now let's get to it! WET SEAL: Our Wet Seal also works great on Dropper Posts. If you find that your dropper post is slow to rise or won’t rise at all but has proper air pressure, Wet Seal will have that post popping up like a hen at sunrise. Similar when applying Wet Seal to your fork, clean the dropper stanchion and seal with a micro-fiber rag before applying our product. Once applied, drop and rise the post 3-4 times and clean off the remaining liquid and grime with a micro-fiber rag. We need to make sure we have all the right tools for the job. For starters, you will need Fox 20wt Gold Fork Fluid, Fox 5wt Teflon Infused Fork Fluid, Fox 36 foam rings, and Fox crush washers. (DO NOT use the old crush washers) We offer a variety of Fox dust wiper refresh kits. Some greases really are special. But in other cases the grease doesn't really matter. Since so many companies just say to use their approved grease, it can be hard to tell apart which applications are really special and which ones don't really matter. Here we are using Sram Butter. Apply a layer of Sram Butter to the inside of the dust seals. This will help keep the fork lubricated and feeling supple.

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Now let's move on to the information you seek. Unfortunately, your question is impossible to answer, as you've provided insufficient data. Lubriplate makes a hundred different products. Some might be appropriate for your application, others are definitely not. They even make a parting agent to separate wooden molds from concrete. This probably wouldn't work well in your fork. Any carbon parts like carbon seatposts should use grease recommended by the manufacturer or for the application. MUC-OFF: Start by hosing down thoroughly to remove any dirt but do not force water into the seals. Our Nano Tech Bike Cleaner can be used to remove any stubborn grime and then rinsed and dried with a clean cloth. You can then apply a light coating of Silicon Shine around the stanchion/wiper seal and you are good to go. WET SEAL: Our product Wet Seal was the first lubricant introduced to the industry specifically for suspension forks and this article. In 2014 we had the Suspension Experts in Asheville run a serious of tests on every fork to make sure our formula was 100% safe.

Applying lubrication to the stanchions will attract dirt and debris, which the wiper seal will wipe away upon the next compression, creating a ring of oil and debris that will need to be cleaned before your next ride. With routine 50 hour lower leg service, the fork will provide the necessary lubrication to the stanchions to perform properly until the next service interval is reached. Routine service combined with proper cleaning and inspection can extend the life and performance of your suspension product. Typically you want to use a lubricant that has a similar composition of what’s found in the bath system. MUC-OFF: We recommend our Silicon Shine. BIKERUMOR: Is there any product/type of lube you should NOT use? WET SEAL: A clean, dry Micro-Fiber rag works best. If you’re having trouble getting heavy grease off the seal or stanchions, we recommend using a little bit of water on the micro-fiber rag. DO NOT USE SOAP. Soap will break down the good oils and grease inside your fork which can result in needing an entire rebuild. Hydraulic mineral oil - this is for disc brakes, and is different from DOT fluid. Anecdotally people use mineral oil including baby oil, and it 'works'. But Shimano claim that only theirs is good and others can destroy your brakes. https://bikerumor.com/2013/04/11/tech-speak-brake-fluid-break-down-and-implications-for-road-disc-updated/ Take this with a pinch of salt as there are bunch of hydraulic mineral oils sold specifically for bicycles and no complaints. Different hydraulic mineral oils do have different boiling points, and different viscosity.WET SEAL: Yes. One can imagine their stanchions are penetrating their lowers. Given it’s a tight fit, lube will reduce the heat on your forks’ seals as the result of friction. Without using lube, seals prematurely wear resulting in dirt/grime finding it’s way into the bath system. The space between the seals and the stanchions is extremely minute to prevent foreign particles from entering your lowers. Seals are the major line of defense for keeping them out. Ensuring that stanchions/seals are properly lubed will extend the life and performance of your fork. Beside this forks often contain a renewable oil, which will be somewhat similar to oil used inside hubs, and manufacturers also will specify a fork lube.

Now that the fork is full of the correct bath oil, slide the lowers far enough on to the upper tubes so that the damper rod and air spring rod come out of the lower legs. Place the appropriate Fox crush washers in to place and thread both bottom nuts on by hand. Somebody said guns? Lubriplate SFL-0. It's an NLGI 0, aluminum complex grease. This would also be a satisfactory choice for the bike, but 105 provides a little better corrosion resistance. Besides these other manufacturers sell different greases for the same job, often with different compounds. Different criteria will include: Internal gear hubs usually use oil, but it's important to use the correct lubricant. Some hubs like the NuVinci hub literally are designed around the special oil they use. For other hub types, the grease doesn't usually matter. Finance is subject to application, financial circumstances and borrowing history. Performance Cycling Limited FRN: 720557 trading as Tredz are authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. We are a credit broker not a lender – credit is subject to status and affordability and is provided by Mitsubishi HC Capital UK PLC. Terms & Conditions Apply.

Step 8

MUC-OFF: Yes! You can’t beat regular cleaning of your whole bike to reduce wear and tear and use a good protectant all over your bike! We wash our bikes after every ride, little and often is better than waiting and turning it into a hellishly big job! Also, some frame couplers specify special fluoro-compound grease, and it's best to follow the instructions or potentially ruin your frame from thread galling.