EverBuild 406 Stabilising Solution 5 Litre

Product Information

A subject that crops up a lot on the topic of exterior wall paint is ‘Stabilising Solution’ or ‘Primer’. Just bear in mind that the stabilising solution will impair the breathability of the finishing coats so only apply to areas where it’s really necessary. Using a stabiliser where not absolutely necessary can impede the performance of any subsequent coats because it isn’t ‘breathable’ and may keep any natural moisture trapped beneath the wall’s surface. Scrape off as much as you can and let it dry-out naturally, which could take a long time, before attempting to redecorate.

However, once it’s rubbed the surface below is relatively solid. I am worried that if I paint the surface with sandtex it could bubble if I don’t stabilise. Kingfisher “Weatherflex Stabilising Solution” is available in 5 litre plastic containers. It should be stored in a cool, dry area, AVOID frost and direct sunlight. Shelf life of the product in, unopened sealed containers is 12 months. I plan to use Macpherson powerkote, hopefully three coats to give it a strong finish. Do you think the powerkote will be suitable to use? Allows painting of new render finishes and re-pointing repairs without alkaline contamination of the paint, which would otherwise delay painting by up to 2 months.Stabilises and hardens “friable” masonry or masonry surfaces which may have “gone soft” due to extreme weathering. In such cases, I always recommend that the wall is left exposed to weather for at least 12 months prior to painting. Remove as much as the dust as you can with a dry brush and scraper and see how it looks. If the surface is fairly solid try priming it with a thinned coat of masonry paint. If that goes OK proceed with over-painting. If it’s still loose you may have to seal the areas affected with a stabilising solution – but only as a last resort. Would you ever used a watered down first coat on areas of render that are dry and chalky so have been treated with stabilising solution?

I have tried stabilising solution and PVA but the problem keeps recurring. Any suggestions to prevent this happening would be helpful. This usually ensures that the walls have had sufficient time to dry-out in depth and that any loose material is washed away naturally when it rains. Below is a sample of questions received on the subject of stabilising primers… White dust on stonework?

What are RNA stabilization reagents?

Eventually I repainted with a water based masonry paint. Every year since then the paint has bubbled and I have had to scrape and repaint.

I am about to re-paint some stonework outside my house. It has previously been painted, but in areas it is a little flaky and kind of like white dust build up, think it’s salt or something like that. With newly rendered surfaces, it is normal to have a certain level of dust and/or powder on the surface as a result of the drying-out process. If this be the case then scrape off any loos paint, allow to dry out over a period of a few weeks and paint again. You may well find this is an ongoing process or it may be isolated to one or two problem areas. I would not normally advise painting since this is going to present yet another barrier to any trapped moisture evaporating away naturally without causing further damage. I am planning to go over the loose areas with a wire brush and paint scraper. Would you say that it would be best to go over the areas that have the white dust build up with a stabilising solution, as the old paint is very flaky in these areas?For larger areas of filler I roughly smoothed over, then again used the paintbrush to texture and blend in the filler. Just scraping over with a knife will leave a smooth area which will show through the paint Would you recommend the use of sandtex stabilising solution as a primer to prevent the paint failure?? The white dust is probably efflorescence – moisture in the stonework will draw out any salts and, provided this isn’t excessive, is perfectly normal.

Regular masonry paint is formulated to allow small levels of moisture to escape through evaporation. It’s important, therefore, to avoid the use of sealers or primers unless absolutely necessary.Tools and equipment should be cleaned with warm soap and water immediately after use. Pump sprayers especially should be thoroughly flushed through with warm soapy water and then flushed with clean water until free of all residues. DO NOT allow to dry before cleaning.