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Citadel Layer: Dark Reaper

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For the sword I go with a bone look – Rakarth flesh washed with Agrax – and I paint the tubing Moot Green.

Airbrush wise these paints worked absolutely perfectly, with only a touch of Vallejo Airbrush Thinner for every 4-5 drops of MSP gave a really nice airbrush consistency. Any item not in its original condition, is damaged or missing parts for reasons not due to our error Reaper Master Series paints are incredible. No kidding, these are so far the best paints I have ever used. High opacity but with an incredibly smooth flow. These paints on their own made me a better painter and it just leaves me wondering – “why aren’t more people using them?”, I have some vague ideas. The Best Paints for Miniatures & Models I take for granted the breakdown Warhammer offer with their Base, Layer, Shade, Edge, Dry, Air categories. But it’s categorisation which Reaper could seriously do with adopting. I genuinely couldn’t tell what was what. Consider that in 2019 the average person’s attention span is 8 seconds. Being flooded with a list of paints and having to wade through on your own to even categorise things isn’t just offputting, it’s painful.

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Mephiston Red: This is a rich, deep red that can be used to paint the details and accents on the miniatures painted with Dark Reaper. It can also be used to create a split-complementary color scheme. I’ve talked a lot about the bottles, and the presentation, but that is where my issues with the range end. Let’s look at the paint itself.

Definitely a step. but I’d still much rather see a clear a Here’s what Core Colours actually are, here’s what Bones are and here’s what Pathfinder is. Reaper Miniatures Master Series Paints – Core Colors Set #1 – Unboxing Reaper Miniatures Master Series Paints – Core Colors Set #1 – Carry Case Greetings, True Believers! Marvel Crisis Protocol (MCP) has entered a golden age, with well-balanced rules (that are available online for free) and over 120 characters available from the Marvel universe (and growing)! If you need a break from other games with too many models, MCP is a nice variation – with only a few characters required for a game and a relatively minimal amount of terrain. And what terrain there is! For my Drukhari, I wanted to make clear that these are three separate subfactions who cooperate, and that they aren’t really a single army. To that end, I chose some color schemes that stand out next to one another, but have a coherent threat that joins them together.Well well, once again you come to me to ask for advice on how to paint Drukhari? Oh don’t worry, prospective and current Archon’s of the Dark City, I will guide you. I hope you have your most hammy evil monologues at the ready and a glass of wine to swirl menacingly, you’ll need it. Eye Lenses – Paint the full lens in Wazdakka Red then, leaving an edge of red, paint Evil Sunz Scarlet inside. If you do have any questions or suggestions on how to improve it for others, then please do let me know. The only time I feel alive is when I'm painting. Vincent Van Gogh

Color Charts Color Space Conversions Decimal 3887440 Binary 00111011, 01010001, 01010000 Hexadecimal #3b5150 LRV ≈ 7.4% Closest short hex #455 ΔE = 2.639 RGB rgb(59, 81, 80) RGBA rgba(59, 81, 80, 1.0) rg chromaticity r: 0.268, g: 0.368, b: 0.364 RYB red: 23.137%, yellow: 27.551%, blue: 31.765% Android / android.graphics.Color -12889776 / 0xff3b5150 HSL hsl(177, 16%, 27%) HSLA hsla(177, 16%, 27%, 1.0) HSV / HSB hue: 177° (177.273), saturation: 27% (0.272), value: 32% (0.318) HSP hue: 177.273, saturation: 27.160%, perceived brightness: 29.403% HSL uv (HUSL) H: 188.119, S: 41.302, L: 32.687 Cubehelix H: -190.852, S: 0.168, L: 0.291 TSL T: -1.446, S: 0.099, L: 0.291 CMYK cyan: 27% (0.272), magenta: 0% (0.000), yellow: 1% (0.012), key: 68% (0.682) CMY cyan: 77% (0.769), magenta: 68% (0.682), yellow: 69% (0.686) XYZ X: 6.194, Y: 7.394, Z: 8.689 xyY x: 0.278, y: 0.332, Y: 7.394 CIELab L: 32.687, a: -8.652, b: -2.162 CIELuv L: 32.687, u: -10.534, v: -1.503 CIELCH / LCHab L: 32.687, C: 8.918, H: 194.033 CIELUV / LCHuv L: 32.687, C: 10.641, H: 188.119 Hunter-Lab L: 27.191, a: -6.926, b: 0.088 CIECAM02 J: 23.597, C: 14.117, h: 195.759, Q: 95.707, M: 12.345, s: 35.915, H: 247.512 OSA-UCS lightness: -10.071, jaune: -0.365, green: 1.579 LMS L: 6.304, M: 8.246, S: 8.664 YCbCr Y: 79.827, Cb: 130.817, Cr: 118.413 YCoCg Y: 75.250, Cg: 5.750, Co: 9.500 YDbDr Y: 74.308, Db: 8.567, Dr: 29.109 YPbPr Y: 76.242, Pb: 2.030, Pr: -10.954 xvYCC Y: 81.478, Cb: 129.783, Cr: 118.378 YIQ Y: 74.308, I: -12.784, Q: -4.963 YUV Y: 74.308, U: 2.802, V: -13.430 Okhsl h: 192.666, s: 0.219, l: 0.326 Okhsv h: 192.666. s: 0.215, v: 0.344 Okhwb h: 192.666, w: 0.270, b: 0.656 Oklab l: 0.416, a: -0.026, b: -0.006 Oklch l: 0.416, c: 0.027, h: 192.666 Munsell Color System 7.5BG 3/2 ΔE = 1.660 Brand Color Code School ΔE = 4.768 Random Colors

Wash the red armor bits with about 40% Agrax, 60% Lahmian Medium, then touch up any pooling marks with Mephiston Red More washes. I want to retain a pale look, so I washed the flesh bits with a 50/50 mix of Agrax Earthshade and Druchii Violet, then I did a couple thin coats of Druchii Violet around the eyes and a ring of Nuln Oil to give the eyes a smoky, shadowy look on her face.

References

That course taught me a lot about airbrushing and glazing to create really interesting and vibrant colour schemes. That course used mostly Citadel Colour paints and mixed them with various other products to make Citadel Contrat style paint for glazing with. And finally a small selection of technical paints. I never used the primer but the flow improver and sealer are both pretty good.

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