I don't own either of these so no photographs, but fundamentally the chassis are the same as the Willy's Wheeler but with different tyres, and an extended chassis tub and mechanism box lid. Neither have a wheelie bar. The Wild Willy 2 is a reproduction of the popular original Wild Willy from the mid 80s. The new Wild Willy has an all new chassis and larger tires allowing it to tread over rough terrain. Of course, the Wild Willys trade mark is the animated wheelie capability thanks to an all new wheelie bar. Specifications Rear Spring Stays have a larger hole on the LWB and the brass fitting has a corresponding extra step.

The trailing arm ball pivots and rear spring mounts were weak points which failed regularly, but both were moulded integrally with the chassis tub and the only repair was a new chassis rebuild. Did a few of those.With the exception of a few screw and bearing dimensions, the chassis of the "M38" and "2" generations of the Wild Willy have no parts in common. Also needing a mention here is part J5 (on the inboard end of the servo saver shaft) has a raised pip, I would guess to try to reduce friction. In reality all it did was wear a pronounced ridge in the inside of the chassis tub. I had to chop the driver's feet just like BMT said. But it's worth noting that we both removed the 'lump' that protrudes on the underside of the body (the bit that fits around the switch on a Wild Willy M38). The driver's feet would be unscathed if the body was left standard, but the body would have to sit noticeably higher.

Front suspension strut tops & pipe clamps: the SWB has 2mm clearance holes + M2 screws fitted from underneath into the plastic tops. On the LWB the screws are fitted through the tops in M2 pressings in the clamps. L10/L15/L14/L3/L2/L9/L16 (Willys body) glue it all together, do a test fit with steeringwheel/shifterknop fitted before glueing on his arms though, so they're fitted in the right angleThe second / front part of the chassis gets constructed next allowing the steering servo to get added and the rods pushed into place with ma big pliers. I keep my fingers crossed, and hope if this is released, that Tamiya take their time to update with some cool new details, like jeep wheels and new tires for it, to make it a new release, rather than just a GF-01 Willy release with the same parts that have been available for almost 15 years now. Then starts the body work - like Theo said, I never use primer for Olive drap color (see his explaination why) - I rather sand the body a bit to get better "grip" for the later to come paint Next up, the "Mechanism Box Lid". The SWB has holes on the top for (from left to right) the antenna wire, speed control resistor wiring, and battery cables.

Enjoy some thrilling wheelies with this assembly kit R/C model! The chassis is constructed around a lightweight and durable monocoque frame, with 4-wheel double wishbone suspension and sealed differential gears. A roller on the rear support bar ensures longer, more stable wheelies. The model features a detailed ABS plastic boy with driver figure included. Wheels already have tires pre-attached, and the motor comes attached to the gearbox to ease the assembly process. Willys was an American automobile manufacturer. They received a commission to build four-wheel drive reconnaissance cars for use in the Second World War. The original model was the Willys MB. The Willys M38 succeeded it and was in production from 1949 to 1952. It is this Willys M38 that serves as the basis for this kit. Wild Willy 2's designers have been up until the wee hours of the morning putting the final touches on this exciting stunt vehicle.The "Switch Stay" also sees some changes between versions: the LWB pressing is narrower & loses the reinforcing fold, but gains an upright section which helps to position the MSC servo. Well it starts looking like a regular model kit. I guess the only difference is nuts and bolts and wires rather than glue and paint. Well for the first part anyway.