Mesh Bed Leveling: Advanced high-quality SuperPINDA sensor (Super Prusa INDuction Autoleveling sensor) As an incremental upgrade in Prusa Research's primary 3D printer line, the Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ offers some modest improvements over the now-discontinued i3 MK3S. Among the changes are an enhanced bed-leveling system, sturdier parts, and improved extruder airflow, all of which serve to make a good printer even better. If you already have the i3 MK3s, you may want to wait until the next generation before replacing it, unless you're anxious to try the five-color add-on. We are developing our own slicing software. PrusaSlicer is a feature-rich, frequently updated tool that contains everything you need to export the perfect print files for your Original Prusa 3D printer. But of course, we also have the settings for the third party slicers like Simplify3D, Cura, etc.

Interestingly, I did need to run my printer bed and extruder temperatures about 5 degrees higher than recommended on all my filaments and I question whether this may be a printer specific. Certainly the default settings on Slic3r PE are quite high. Amongst the Benchys, I also ran 3 cube/vase mode prints to get the extrusion multiplier just right, did another Benchy, but still couldn’t eliminate the stringing. The frame consists of a base that supports a square arch to which the vertical and horizontal carriages (along which the extruder moves) are attached. The base also supports the build plate, which can move in and out (toward or away from the front of the printer). In front of the build plate is an orange panel housing a monochrome LCD, with a control knob at the right and an SD card slot on the left side. The print area for the i3 MK3S+, at 9.8 by 8.3 by 8.3 inches (HWD), is a smidge larger than its predecessor's 9.8 by 8.3 by 7.9 inches. It's also slightly larger than that of the Anycubic i3 Mega S (8.1 by 8.3 by 8.3 inches) and considerably bigger than the 7-inches-cubed print volume of the Original Prusa Mini. Wide range of thermoplastics, including PLA, PETG, ASA, ABS, PC (Polycarbonate), CPE, PVA/BVOH, PVB, HIPS, PP (Polypropylene), Flex, nGen, Nylon, Carbon filled, Woodfill and other filled materials.

The Prusa i3 MK3S+ Vs. the i3 MK3S

The team at Prusa Research have made something special with the MK3. If you only ever own one printer, make it this one. Of course, once you buy it you will want more of them, and that's ok too. – Windows Central Review The preassembled i3 MK3S+ required very little work to get up and running. It arrives with a test print (the Prusa name plaque seen above) already printed out and adhered to the build plate. You gently pry it off, assemble the spool holder—which snaps into place on the metal bar atop the printer—then turn the printer on. Among the other hardware improvements that Prusa has made for the i3 MK3S+, the Y-axis bearings are held by metal clips instead of the old U-bolts, and some new plastic parts have replaced zip ties in holding the carriage's smooth rods. The X-axis belt-tensioning system has been modified. The extruder's plastic parts are also slightly different to improve the cooling airflow.

Prusa has characterized the changes between the i3 MK3S and its successor as minor, offering improved durability but with little change in performance. The MK3S+ has a different mesh bed leveling probe called SuperPINDA, which is temperature-independent. However, Prusa says the previous probe was already highly precise, and the change was merely to compensate for temperature drift. MK3S users may see only a small improvement in first-layer accuracy. This change is more significant for the Original Prusa Mini+, which replaces the Original Prusa Mini. (Prusa has unified the mesh bed leveling probe across all its machines.) Although we didn't notice any qualitative difference in the prints, I did notice that the bed leveling, in which the probe touches 16 points on the print bed's surface while automatically leveling the bed, was swift and smooth. Advanced features: Automatic filament loading, steel sheet profiles, Octoprint compatibility and more We provide high print settings with the printer, so you don't have to dive into complex new programs the second you finish the build. You can start printing right away, and this gives you a great head start! Hardened drive gears allow the use of abrasive materials that would otherwise wear out the gears of the original feeder. The preassembled version of the Original Prusa i3 MK3S is a cinch to get up and running, is easy to operate, and has a good slicing program. It produced consistently beautiful prints in our testing, with no misprints. – PC Mag Review

Preview

Filament sensor, Loadcell sensor, Power panic, 4 high-precision thermistors (genuine Semitec) + fan motors RPM monitoring

You then use the LCD's control knob to extract the remaining filament from the extruder, twist the knob to Filament In, put a spool of filament on the holder, and feed it into the extruder. Filament should soon start extruding from the nozzle; pressing Yes when you're prompted will stop the flow. You remove the strand of filament hanging from the nozzle, put the supplied SD card in its slot, select a sample file, and press Print. My short summary of filaments in the UK is based on my own experience guided by the kind contributions from contributors above. This may be an unfair comparison as I am new to 3d printing and I was comparing different colours which does affect PLA properties so take this at face value. All the filaments I tried were good, but some were better. Of the 11 printers we have tested over the past five years, the Prusa i3 MK3S printer has produced the largest and best-looking prints. – THE NEW YORK TIMES REVIEW

Test Prints

I have a friend in England with a Mendel Duet printer that says he uses nothing but Rigid Ink PLA and he is quite fussy. In the photo below, from left to right the temperatures are 193, 195, 205, 210. The 193 version completed and had seemed to have the least amount of stringing, but split along the bottom when I removed it from the plate and showed signs of under extrusion/layer separation), I didn’t grab a photo of the 215 version, but I couldn’t see any noticeable difference between it and the 210 version.