Another vote for Franklin/Powerhand type, they're easy to use on the vehicle and I've never had a problem flaring steel or copper with mine. Before bending anything, check the pipe is all in the right place and roughly following the original brake line path (again don't get it the wrong side of any parts of the frame).

The "correct" way of lubricating brake fitments is with brake fluid (never anything else because of contamination). These fitments are notorious for welding themselves together - this is where the penetrating oil (WD40 or similar) and flare spanners come in. I use a Machine Mart branded version and although they are fairly crude, I can make perfect flares in 3/16" with only rare distortion.However, do not mix and match like this for any part that is going to be left on the car permanently. Now working under the car at the rear you should be able to pull the pipe through and feed it up over the subframe, following the path of the original brake line and threading it around obstacles until it pops out under the rear wheel arch. When you remove your old brake pipes have a look at the flare on the end of them (it'll almost certainly be DIN) and only use that type of flare. The time has come to fit new brake lines, I intend to make my own so will need a cutting/flaring kit. Here is the contents of the kit, there is a video on line that shows how easy it is to use, comes with full instructions.

Metric and imperial flares are interchangeable with metric or imperial brake pipes, for example you can safely use a metric flare on an imperial brake pipe. I make no claim and disclaim all warranties, implied or absolute, that the information on this site is correct, complete, accurate or up to date. If you're flushing the system then continue until you start to see the new fluid flow out of the nipple and down the pipe. That brake pipe is the longest on the car and to run a new one in the same location I would have had to drop the fuel tank. You can usually achieve this by careful bending, but if you can't just place a Type 5 body fixing anywhere it is likely to rub against a metal part.

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Working at the back of the car, start by releasing the brake pipe from around the suspension and springs in the wheel arch (you will need to bend it a bit). Familiarise yourself with the route of the brake pipe you are going to replace (see photo to the left).

pipe bender ensures a consistent internal diameter right across the bend compared to oversized pipe benders designed for plumbing. Also make sure you have a male and female brake pipe end cap handy to seal the brake hose and pipe once it is removed. It will also cost a similar small fortune to get the car to a garage now that all the fluid has leaked away.

To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. The metric Din looks like a bubble, but the imperial SAE looks like a cocktail glass (see photo to left).You, may need to replace it with cupro nickel pipe which is significantly more maleable and far easier to flare.