Print the fingers several times. The print was tuned for the person who designed it, but everyone's hand is a little different. Be prepared to print the pieces several times to tune the sizes to your own hand. I found it really helpful to keep a personal log of the print scalings and how well they fit me. Here is my final scalings: Put on the glove and hold the finger armor pieces in their intended place to see if they are too big/small Connect a 3v power supply to the breadboard. This could be the 3v watch battery if you have a holder that can plug in, it could be a 2 cell AA battery holder, which would provide a total of 3v, or it could be a bench power supply set to 3v, to name a few options. Wait for good weather. Rather than testing fate on a day when it might rain, I waited a day or two until it was clear and sunny. Time to test the NeoPixel ring. To do this, we'll need to upload new test code to the Lilypad MP3's microcontroller.

I went out and did about 6 thin coats at 30-60 minute intervals. This layering allowed the paint to adhere, prevented bubbles, lumps and drips. The strategy is basically to keep doing more coats until you get the color you want.

Apply a couple coats of plastic adhesion promoter on all the pieces. Follow instructions on the can. Find the model on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1779274 I used the models here. Big shoutout to DaDave for compiling this epic suit of 3D printed Iron Man Armor! I only printed the main hand piece, fingers, and the center disk, but you're welcome to print even more of the armor!

Tune your settings. This was a mistake I made, I didn't do enough testing before hand, and I ended up printing an insane number of supports on the main piece. These ended up being really annoying to remove later, so I would recommend doing some test prints first. This could be just printing the first few layers of the model, or printing a really small version. The VBATT pin is unfortunately not switched which means the NeoPixel is always on when the battery is connected; you'll need to disconnect the battery when you turn off the Lilypad MP3 to avoid draining the battery. Or add a switch between the battery and the JST port. Or use a connector to wire the NeoPixel to the LilyPad and disconnect it when not in use. The lights should turn on! If not, don't worry, I still plug things in wrong every day, so just review the previous steps carefully. If nothing seems wrong, you might have a bad component (I've found especially some breadboards can be really inconsistent) so try swapping out the parts! Add some sensor integration. I was thinking about how best to control the light, and I found this incredible little sensor on sparkfun called a "bend sensor." This sensor acts as a variable resistor based on how much it's bent, kind of like a potentiometer. Adafruit sells one too. I was planning to hook up the lights with a simple dimming circuit either analog or with an attiny85 microcontroller.This is all that's really necessary. If you can't or don't want to put in the extra time, skip the rest of this step. If you want to get a better finish and a cleaner final product however, read on. Place the reference electrode nonadjacent to the muscle body that the other electrodes were placed. This is the obvious major step in this build, and you're welcome to stop after this step. Especially if you print the glove in red filament, you could make a similar build for a lot less work, but it won't have as nice a finish or color. It should be fairly self explanatory, but here was my process: Place one of the electrodes that are connected directly to the MyoWare board in the middle of your forearm muscle with the other electrode placed along the length of the muscle. As the foam seals, you should be able to see the foam turn slightly shinier. Makes it easy to tell were the hot air has passed over already.