Use a clean towel to wipe the water off, and then let it dry about 30 minutes or so, or longer if the wood still looks wet. But it’s always bothered me that I didn’t know more. I couldn’t wait to get into my garage and start experimenting with some of the wood dyes because I knew the results would be dramatic!

One common mistake is to confuse liming wax with lime wash. While both can give a whitewash effect to wood, they’re fundamentally different products with separate application processes. Limewash is a type of paint, while liming wax is a finishing product. Another typical error is to use wet liming wax on sealed or painted wood. For best results, apply liming wax on bare wood, particularly open-grained timber, where the white pigment can settle into the grooves. It’s not a huge difference but over those few days the liming wax had bleached away most of the interest in the piece. There was very little difference or variation, it was all kind of a flat hazy white that was far more beachy than what we were looking for. At this point I was not really excited. I had spent a lot of time designing and building this piece, got the exact finish I wanted only for it to slip through my fingers like the time I lost three legged race right at the end at Field Day in third grade. Pretty much the same amount of crying. I was frantically googling how to strip off wax and start over at this point, and really not looking forward to that.

STEP 1: Prepare a Sample Board

My favorite stripper is Citristrip. I’ve used different brands of strippers over the years when I couldn’t find this one and nothing works as well in my experience. Liming wax looks great on hardwood such as oak or other open-grained woods because it enhances the natural grain of the wood. This is why limewashing is a good solution if you want to preserve the wood while also adding interest to it. This is what it looked like when I was ready to refinish the wood chest. I’m not a fan of that outdated honey-colored oak. Not one bit. BEFORE Hot take but I’m coming out firmly and saying no. Some people use whitewash and liming wax interchangeably but to me there is a pretty big difference. A whitewash finish in furniture is achieved by watering down a white paint and results in a more milky wash finish, it’s much more white overall versus the liming wax finish should highlight the natural color or stain of a piece and leave only the wax in the crevices or grain. How do you apply liming wax? Dyes are more likely to fade.Using dyes wouldn’t be a good idea on pieces of furniture or wood projects that will be used in direct sunlight or outdoors. Since my vanity isn’t in direct light, it’s fine, but keep this in mind for your furniture piece.

This is during the first pass of Citristrip. This is the part where you’re wondering if you should have started this, haha! Keep going! Use the wire brush to get crevices and tough areas. It will get gunky, but you can use the putty knife to scrape it off.

What’s Next in Finishing This Red Oak Bathroom Vanity

It’s not an exact science because it’s going to depend on how dark or light you want your wood to be (don’t over mix, however, or you’ll end up with a bunch of dye at the bottom and it could make your wood powdery). Pinewood is a popular type of softwood that is very lightweight and strong, although not as strong as other types of hardwood. Pinewood is known for its elasticity, which allows it to resist shrinking and swelling when exposed to the elements. Thanks to its durability and affordable price, pinewood is a very popular option for indoor furniture.

As we have mentioned, liming wax works best on exposed, bare wood, which is why any wood that has been painted or sealed with varnish or other sealants won’t be able to benefit from liming wax. In these cases, you will often need to strip the existing finish to expose the wood, sand it down, and raise the grain before applying the liming wax.What I love about using liming wax is that the grain comes alive. On the “BEFORE,” there was nothing about the wood chest that stood out to me. It was good quality but very boring. But with the liming wax it looks….expensive. And that metal monogram takes it to a whole ‘nother level, if I do say so myself. After you’ve scraped and applied and scraped and applied, comes the fun part! Liming wax! This fun little product takes very little (I’ve used this can for two projects and still have more) and goes on super fast. I even did the giant wine cooler in less than an hour!

But….I did love how the liming wax looked in the grain and in the lines of the apron all around the table….. NOTE: If you’re using your wood in a moist place, like a bathroom, keep reading below (see Things You Should Know) to find out why wax wouldn’t be a good option to create this look. The grain would become open and more pronounced. And I believe this can affect the quality of the finish you get. Prepare the Wood: Start by ensuring the wood surface is clean, dry, and free from old finishes. Use a mild detergent or wood cleaner to remove dirt and oil. Rinse thoroughly and allow it to dry completely before proceeding.

STEP 5: Apply the Wood Dye with a Rag, Brush, or Sponge

I like both versions, but the lighter finish and more casual vibe definitely work better in our home where we use this one table for everything from dailymeals, work and homework, to holidays and special occasions with our family and friends. And those turned legs…I don’t even know how I am supposed to get that off! Not my cup of tea at all! So, the little table that I experimented on still sits looking sad and halfway stripped. I loathe it and I don’t want to mess with it. Eventually I will finish it, but not today. Let’s Try Something Easy!! A Limed Oak Table Stripping furniture is messy business, for sure. I like to use a large garbage bag, cut open, so that way I can just scoop it all up and throw it away!