Sram Powerlock Connector Chain Links for Eagle 12 Speed Chains (1 x Chain Link)

£6.495
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Sram Powerlock Connector Chain Links for Eagle 12 Speed Chains (1 x Chain Link)

Sram Powerlock Connector Chain Links for Eagle 12 Speed Chains (1 x Chain Link)

RRP: £12.99
Price: £6.495
£6.495 FREE Shipping

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Just about every tool brand offers a master link plier and they all do much the same role and in the same way. They simply hook into the rollers of the chain and work to squeeze the master link open. KMC and Wippermann (Connex Link) produce universal chainlinks compatible with all 12, 11, 10, 9, and 8-speed chains regardless of brand. Ensure your chain is the right length and that both ends of the chain are open inner links, (using a chain breaker) as needed. What I use is Wipperman Connex links. They’re a mechanical fit, not a press/snap fit. Not tools are needed to install or remove them, which is what I like about them most (be sure to orient them correctly following the instructions – it’s not that obvious how it’s done). Mine have always run smooth and quiet. That’s what I’d try if I were you even though they do cost more. Hope this helps and thanks for the great comments. The failures I have seen in testing are in two places. First, at the pin / outer plate junction. On one I had fail on my bike, I literally saw the pin fall out of the outer plate on the side where it was (previously) permanently fixed at the factory.

Nonetheless, many people reuse non-reusable links. Some do it because they don’t know any better while others are knowingly taking the risk. If step six is unsuccessful, then rest the bike on the ground. Ensure chain link is centered above the chainstay, firmly apply rear brake and stand on drive side pedal. Push down until the link seats. The granting of a best price is not combinable with other promotions (e.g. "free articles) from Bike-Discount. Newer 11 and 12-speed links are much the same as those 10-speed links, and most are designed to be closed once. Shimano, SRAM and KMC (one variant) sit in the “non-reusable” corner and recommend replacement if removed. However, there are endless reports of people who have successfully reused these links without issue, myself included. If you’re willing to chance it, then pay close attention to the force required to install the link. As Win Allen suggests, “I have reused the Shimano link with much success, but only if it still has a tight fit when re-installing it. If there is any question it gets replaced.”For that reason, you may experience some stiffness, but it shouldn’t be too noticeable nor a problem. Universal Chain Links For 10, 11 or 12-speed links, you’ll need to use tools to open the link. If you plan on replacing the chain and don’t have the tools to undo the link, you can use a chain breaker on any chain pin other than the master link to remove the chain. Bicycle chains’ width differs according to the number of speeds that the bike has. More speeds require a narrower chain because there are more cogs on the cassette/freewheel. Great question, Ed! I wasn’t 100% sure myself, because I have reused about every connecting link going. So I decided to go straight to SRAM for an answer. I reached out to Road Marketing Technical Rep, Nate Newton through SRAM’s online link Finance is subject to application, financial circumstances and borrowing history. Performance Cycling Limited FRN: 720557 trading as Tredz are authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. We are a credit broker not a lender – credit is subject to status and affordability and is provided by Mitsubishi HC Capital UK PLC. Terms & Conditions Apply.

If you find an item at a lower price with another commercial internet retailer, you will receive it from us at the same price, provided the conditions listed in the link are met. Since the cassettes on modern bikes are equally wide from 8 to 12 speeds, the chain has to get thinner on denser cassettes or its outer links will rub against the adjacent cogs.If that happens, the unsuspecting rider re-tensions the chain only to experience a very sudden failure. And, as I’m sure you’ve seen or perhaps had happen to you, this usually results in a bad crash. So, again, please advise your readers for their own safety to not reuse the links.” I used to recycle my 9-speed links from chain to chain without issue. When wear would appear on the pins of the master link, I’d replace them, but would otherwise remove the chain freely from the bike until that point. With the master links like SRAM’s you also ‘feel’ the link positively snap into position. As the link is reused the positive engagement disappears as the engagement hole becomes enlarged and elongated. Jim, I STRONGLY urge you not to recommend your readers reuse those links. Some may weigh in saying they have reused them without issue but it truly isn’t a question of IF they fail but WHEN, once you go off schedule and choose to ignore the manufacturer’s recommendation. You can now pull the link into its closed position. If using an 8 or 9-speed link, you can now simply pull the link shut with your hands, although you may need to squeeze the link together at the same time.

A great-value option is YBN. These links are extremely similar to the KMC Missing link and are claimed to be good for up to five uses. Compulsive chain and chain lube tester Adam Kerin of Zero Friction Cycling says he typically reuses his YBN links 5-10 times, and without issue to date. As Ed mentioned, having a link you can open and close more than once comes in very handy for cleaning and changing chains. It’s also smart to carry such a link in your repair kit for easy repairs should you break a chain on the road (some roadies call these links “chain patches” — always liked that name). While Wippermann Connex and just about all 8 and 9-speed links can be removed by hand, the rest require an element (or a lot!) of force. A dedicated tool is worth owning if you plan on re-using a link. There’s no shortage of master link pliers on the market. I tried and compared all that are pictured. Note how the Park Tool on the left features jaws designed to open and close links, while the Topeak on the right can only be used to squeeze (open) links. The Unior (right) was the highest quality tool tested and a pleasure to use, but it’s only good for opening links. I wanted to also get an opinion from an impartial tech expert, so I sent the same question to one of my most trusted industry friends — someone with extensive current experience testing all brands and models of connecting links. He prefers to remain anonymous.Thanks for your reply: helpful, as were other comments. I must say I haven’t felt entirely confident in my understanding of the situation – because it didn’t make sense to me, and still doesn’t, really. Removing and replacing removes enough metal to make a difference? Is that observable somehow? Is there some number of reuses at which the link becomes prone to falling apart? Does lubrication make any difference? My 11 speed chains last about 6,000 kms before they are -05% worn. I recently moved to waxing, which needs redoing every 200 kms, which will be 30 times per chain, so the economics of not reusing links are not good. Assuming SRAM chains, does it make any difference which ‘reusable’ link I use? Comparative prices from Bike24 are Wipperman Connex E14.51, KMC E4.61 compared with SRAM E2.76. Does anything about the performance of a Wipperman link justify the extra cost? What is connecting link performance? Noise? I’ve never liked Power-links all that much. I never found them all that easy to open, and I always wound up with filthy hands. However, using a chain tool takes very little skill. And even if one removes a chain multiple times, the likelihood of opening it at the same link is very low.



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