Next, consider the programming options of the timer. Some timers allow for daily or weekly scheduling, while others offer more advanced options such as random setting and sunrise/sunset mode. Decide which features are important to you and choose a timer that meets those needs. And this brings me to say things need to slow down just a little, well, maybe a little more than that. I have just been given a rush assignment at work and I need to devote time to that (since I get paid at work, and I don't get paid for this endeavour). Also, you have asked several questions about terms and words and we haven't had a chance to cover them in any detail yet. We need to keep some focus here so that we don't get ahead of ourselves. We need to be sure that all questions get answered before we jump to another topic or rung.

I think the important thing to get out of this exercise is how to "read" signal names and logic (rungs). DO NOT trust the longname description from Toolbox--just as with l26qn. When you wrote the sentence for the rung, it doesn't make sense to start the turbine with low lube oil tank temperature. You're saying, "If I can't trust the longname description in Toolbox, what can I trust?" Well, you have to analyze the information in front of you, and use any other resources you have to make sense of the situation. b>"When L4S IS a logic "1" OR when L4 IS a logic "1", AND when L94T IS NOT a logic "1" AND when L4T IS NOT a logic "1", then L4 will be a logic "1"."

When this ‘brain’ of your washer malfunctions, it can lead to unpredictable behavior, including mid-cycle stops. You're going to have to look up Control Constant values, and various device settings (from the Device Summary document provided with every GE-design heavy duty gas turbine). So, you will need to find the Device Summary document (it also used be in Vol. III, but who knows where "they" put it now...). Once you’ve made the adjustments, use the spirit level again to ensure the washer is perfectly level from all sides.

Here are some other things to consider when finding the best pool timer for your specific needs. Load CapacityNOTE - For outdoor installation (model GE15087), rain tight or wet location conduit hubs that comply with requirements of UL 514B (standard for fittings for conduit and outlet boxes) must be used. Imagine how many wires would be have to be used to interconnect all these devices to a single control system. Imagine how complicated and large such a control system would have to be. I don't know about you, but I LOATHE European-style, high-density terminal boards--even when appropriate sized wires are used on them. I prefer to have terminal boards that have to use a voltmeter easily and without fear of shorting or grounding, and where I can see terminations visually and where I can handle wires for troubleshooting and repair purposes. And, you're proposing even more wires and more terminal boards and more printed circuit cards and more complexity. The GE Z-Wave is not the cheapest pool timer on the market, but it comes at a fair price for a smart switch. Smart switches don’t come cheap; this one is just a fraction of the cost of other smart timers from more prominent companies. Safety You had asked about relays and discrete inputs (and by extension, discrete outputs) and you're talking about relays here like you have a good understanding of them. Control systems have gotten more and more sophisticated over the last few decades. And they have gotten both cheaper--and more expensive. I can recall when USD140,000.00 for a Mark IV Speedtronic turbine control panel was a LOT of money--and it wasn't all that capable as a programmable control system. Now, Mark VIes are nearly two- to three times as much, but they do have a LOT more capability, and they are much more expandable (inputs or outputs can be "easily" added to the control system (easily is a relative term--much easier than the Mark IV!).

Cleaning or recalibrating these sensors can sometimes resolve the issue, but they may need replacement if damaged. For replacing the sensor, I would recommend getting a technician’s help. 5. Washer Timer Malfunction L5SETOP1 = is a logic "1" when one of the E-STOP Push-button inputs to the

core is actuated (open) Let's deal with the L14HR signal. "14" means it's a speed level signal, "H" means it's related to the HP shaft (and since your turbine is a single-shaft, I presume) the shaft is the HP shaft, and "R" means the shaft is 'at rest' or, 'at zero speed.' So, L14HR is a logic "1" when the turbine-generator shaft is at rest, or at zero speed. L5SETOP1 is a logic signal that comes from the

core when one of E-Stop P/B (Pushbutton) circuits is NOT closed. (E-Stop P/B circuits are normally closed, and when the circuit opens (by pressing the the E-Stop P/B) the turbine is tripped. There are a couple, if I recall correctly, E-Stop P/B inputs so it's easier to identify which E-Stop P/B has been actuated (or possibly a wire in the circuit has come loose--it does happen!). Note again--this comes from

core. It is a hardware trip, as opposed to a software trip. It's meant to be a "positive" means of tripping the turbine (by opening the circuit) without having to go through software to trip the turbine. (There are also software trips, but I believe many insurance companies and some technical regulations and standards require a hardware method of tripping the turbine.) Hopefully, we will remember to cover this when we get to the L4T rungs, and other ways to trip the turbine.

What Else To Consider

With a higher rating on the timer than the pump, you won’t have to worry about the timer being your system’s weak point. Also, when you get a pool timer with a high current rating, you can use it with many different types of pool pumps. In this line of logic, you can see I have set up a Reset to be triggered when a user hits a button to tell the PLC that the service is complete for our RTO example above. Using the appropriate drill bit size, drill the pilot holes (Note that if drilling into wood or metal a specialized drill bit may be needed.) See Drill Diagram. And, the numbers--they are VERY important. They correspond to GE's interpretation of the ANSI Device Numbering standard, and GE's interpretation is very close to the ANSI standard. For example, a "4" device is a 'master protective' or 'master control' element/device. A "14" is a speed level element/device. A "33" is a limit switch element/device. A "63" is a pressure sensing element/device (a pressure switch). A "94" is a shutdown (normal shutdown--not emergency shutdown, trip) element/device. A "5" is an emergency shutdown element/device (like an emergency stop pushbutton). It's VERY helpful to commit the ANSI device number standard to memory--or at least have a copy available when you are reading application code. It's critical, actually, and as you get more familiar with the device numbers you will begin to recognize certain functions/signals. You can find lots of ANSI lists on the world wide web with your preferred Internet search engine.