Klipperis an open-source firmware for your 3D printer that combines the power of a Raspberry Piand your printer mainboard for better printer control. By doing this, you are able to run your printer at higher speeds with better precision and control. Why Install Klipper on Creality Ender 3 S1? Because the Sprite extruder is a direct drive extruder and doesn’t need to push the filament through a long tube to the hot end, it requires a much shorter retraction distance than Bowden extruders. You should adjust the retraction settings in your slicer accordingly. See if there is anyone with a printer.cfg file that matches my setup (or someone that can tell me how to go about creating one and where I can get the info from)

Sprite Extruder Pro Kit 300℃ High Temperature | Full Metal

The dual drive extruder replaces the toothed gear and idler of the single gear design with two hobbed gears, which each have a concave toothed section for gripping the filament and are connected with gear teeth on the bottom so they simultaneously apply pressure to the filament from both sides. One gear is mounted directly to the motor shaft, and the other uses an internal bearing to rotate freely. Both gears are made of steel and are unlikely to experience wear issues. This extruder is seen on Creality’s premium 3D printers, including the CR-10S Pro, Ender 6, and CR-X Pro. One of the most attractive features of the Creality Sprite Pro Extruder is its weight and size. Yes, there are lighter and more compact extruders out there, but the Sprite Extruder comes with a more powerful Nema 17 extruder motor and the hotend is included in the extruder design. I was also curious to see what’s the thermal performance of the Creality Sprite Pro extruder. So I set the hotend temperature to 300C, and waited for 15 minutes before measuring the temperatures with the FLIR Camera installed on the CAT S62 ProI started with the plated brass nozzle and got great results. I decided to experiment with a Tungsten Carbide MK8 nozzle and low and behold, it works. Now I have a permanent nozzle and can print with abrasives. The separate extruder means that the print head is lighter, allowing for faster printing and less likelihood of artifacts like "salmon skin" from inertia of the added weight. Read that as {X, Y, Z}. My probe is about 30mm to the front and 40mm to the left. Suppose you read the documentation like a nerd. You'll probably want to adjust the Z offset within the printer menu instead of the firmware. This drop-in Sprite upgrade offers most of the advantages of a direct drive extruder, but due to its design, it does result in a slightly longer filament path from the extruder to the hot end compared to the fully integrated version of the Sprite. This means its retraction performance isn’t quite on par with the full Sprite upgrade, although it’s much better than a Bowden extruder. Additionally, its ability to print high-temperature materials is dependent on the hot end in use, so you will need an all-metal hot end to print high temperature materials. The Sprite Pro upgrade, on the other hand, includes an integrated all-metal hot end. You can see a piece of PTFE tube at the bottom of the extruder but that’s installed to guide the filament to the nozzle, and it doesn’t reach the hot side.

Sprite Pro Extruder - 3DJake International Creality Sprite Pro Extruder - 3DJake International

This issue I have is that I have upgraded my Ender 3v2 with a Direct Drive Sprite Pro and a CR Touch all of which was working well. I also have replaced the standard Glass hotbed with the magnetic Creality PEI one, but for the benefit of setup I replaced the Glass bed ontop of the magnetic base as I couldn’t get the Z Offset low enough (but that’s another issue that can be ignored here) If you have the BLTouch, CRTouch or any other autolevel device, you will definitely need to program Marlin to implement the settings. I personally think autolevelling is a necessity and has been worth every penny. Although the Sprite extruder has a mount and connection to plug your BL/CRTouch into, this vendor did not supply the necessary short cable to do so. They also did not answer my query to see if it was available. If that is still the case, just use the long cable to the motherboard and do not connect the one from the Sprite cable. First, let’s talk about the hotend part. In the case of the Sprite Pro Extruder, the heat break is made from titanium and it’s all metal. The heatsink is made from aluminum and it’s cooled by the tiny radial fan on the side. Honestly, this design is pretty smart and I found that it works quite well during operation. Thermal shots are available below, to also judge the thermal efficiency of this solution. As you can see, the Nema17 pancake stepper motor is customized for the Sprite extruder with slots for installing the bearing that keeps the gear aligned. In the images below you can see that the filament path and gears are not correctly aligned, but this is caused by the pressure made by the spring which holds the idler. When the extruder is coupled with the motor, everything lines up correctly.Navigate to Prepare » Move Axis and move the Extruder axis to confirm the extruder feeds filament properly. This design is generally effective, however there are a number of issues you can encounter after prolonged use: Heat the nozzle by navigating to Prepare » Preheat PLA. Watch the temperature display on the printer and confirm that it heats up to the chosen temperature and maintains it. This confirms that the hot end is still wired properly and that nothing was damaged during the installation process. Does require a bit of tweaking of the printer configuration to get Z offset and Steps/mm correctly but there's plenty of videos on youtube. Hardware wise its a fairly straight foward install. Inside the Titan extruder, the extruder gear is connected to the separate motor shaft through a gear system with a gear ratio of 3:1. Like the single-gear Bowden designs, the filament is driven on one side, while the other side is held by a freely rotating idler pulley. Below the gear, the filament path is fully enclosed, which is important to prevent jamming when printing with flexible filaments like TPU.

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Creality designed the extruder so that it collides with the right side of your x-axis roller support when you home the printer. You will need to reverse and shorten the upper right roller bolt on the Sprite x-axis mount or program a little less x-axis size in Marlin. I chose the programming option and made my x-axis 230mm instead of the standard 235mm. I have found I could spare the 5mm. Here, we'll be saying, "Hey, motherboard? Ma'am? Wherever the nozzle stops, that's not it. Move the bed about a centimetre." Then i have set this to 97% and tried from 80%-100% everthing in 2% steps with Top Surface Solid Fill Flowrate. Some minor effects can be seen but all not good. Then i have done again tests with Top Solid Fill Extrusion width Percentage. Same here. The Sprite extruder-only upgrade requires a different e-step value, which is a setting that controls how far the printer needs to turn the extruder motor to extrude a certain amount of filament. You can configure the e-steps for the Sprite extruder using this process: They are powered by a stepper motor, similar to the ones that move the print head in the X, Y and Z direction. You’ll often see E as shorthand to refer to the extruder’s stepper motor.I might of found a solution to your problem on reddit. you need to edit the printer.cfg file on the sonic pad with these updates (they worked for me with a bit of fine tuning) [stepper_x] Now that you have completed the installation process, you will also need to adjust the e-steps setting on your printer to compensate for the gear ratio of the Sprite extruder. You’ll also need to adjust the retraction settings in your slicer software. E-Steps for the Sprite Extruder The double-tooth structure of the dual-gear extruder does not damage the filaments but makes the feeding more reliable and stable. After upgrading to a dual-gear metal extruder or a direct drive extruder, you’ll need to set the E-steps on your printer to match the extruder. The new setting will depend on the specific extruder model you are updating to, and you should always start with the setting in the reference material that is included. Generally, the settings should be close to the below for each extruder type: